Open Heart 

FA:  2007 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  10 pitches, 1750 feet, Grade IV Views: 635 page views Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 1, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Start 

Start 200' left/east of the giant black water streak, on the far left side of the buttress.

Route Description: 

Pitch 1: (200') Climb dirty cracks and a short slab.
Pitch 2: (200') Climb a flakey slab and a right-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3: (200') Climb up a slab, ledge, face & intermittent cracks.
Pitch 4: (200') Climb a clean slab.
Pitch 5: (200') Climb up a dirty face & low-angle dirty slabs.
Pitch 6: (100') Climb dirty slabs.
Pitch 7: (150') Climb tree-filled cracks.
Pitch 8: (150') Climb a clean face.
Pitch 9: (150') Climb loose rock.
Pitch 10: (200') Climb more loose rock.

Protection 

I recommend 8 SLCDs (0.4"-3.5"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24").

Descent 

Scramble southwest into the gully.

History 

Bolted in 2007.
Sections of the first 2 pitches may have been climbed by the Alpenbock Club in the 1960s, but there is no record of it.

Note 

This may be Grade V by next year.