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Gate Buttress

Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Gate Buttress


Getting There 

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gate Buttress:
Schoolroom   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom Roof   5.6 A1     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch   Schoolroom Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet   Beckey's Wall Area
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom West   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Terror   5.7     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Beckey's Wall Area
Hatchet Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Schoolroom Area
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Schoolroom Area
The Hook   5.8 R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   Schoolroom Area
Satan's Corner   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet   Dihedrals Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Torture   5.8     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Beckey's Wall Area
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Beckey's Wall Area
Pebbles and Bambam   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Beckey's Wall Area
Half-A-Finger   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang   5.10b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Dihedrals Area
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Dihedrals Area
Stem the Tide   5.10d R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Dihedrals Area
Mind Blow   5.10d R     Trad, 170 feet   Schoolroom Area
Equipment Overhang Left   5.11a     Trad   Dihedrals Area
Browse More Classics in Gate Buttress

Featured Route For Gate Buttress
The crux... (2002)

Equipment Overhang Left 5.11a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dihedrals Area
This is the route roughly in the center of the main wall, easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. But once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared buttcrack excitement. This is a great route for someone wanting to break into 5.11 trad climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT