Albion Basin

A view of mt superior near sunrise

Description 

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

Getting There 

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

The Classics

Featured Route For Albion Basin

Black Streak 5.10a/b PG13  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Devil's Castle

Fun, 6-7 pitch alpine "sport" route. The first bolted route on the North Face of Devil's Castle and due to its inclusion in the Ruckman Guide, the most popular. Subsequently, it is also the cleanest and currently the one most free of loose rock. Pitch #1: Bolt protected face climbing to a ledge and anchor, 5.10a, 130'.Pitch #2: Crux pitch goes through a roof and to the right to another ledge and bolt chained anchor, 5.10b, 100'. Pitch...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Albion Basin Slideshow

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Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...	Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.	by the green stash wall
green stash wall	stinky stash wall	whiper wall
by whiper wall	mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall	Endangered Pica