The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
P1. Start in the chimney/squeeze right of Beckey's and left of Cheetah. Climb up this and continue to thrash your way through the trees, and broken climbing. You can stop at the slung tree or continue on pitch 2 as one long pitch.
P2. Continue up the gully/crack system occasionally finding some good moves, otherwise it is the same tree thrash/gully romp as the first pitch. Stop at the next slung tree.
P3. Continue up the crack system (drool as you look at Needle's Eye Variation (my next trip up I will climb this)), and start angling right to get to the roof. Undercling the roof all the way right until you can clip a piton around the corner, make a delicate step around and belay at the tree.
First two pitches are not all that special, but the last pitch was really fun, albeit with griity rock.
The book rates this a 5.6. If I compared this traverse to Perhaps, this was distinctly harder. (My two cents) I felt 5.8 was more accurate.
Location
Chimney/gully between Cheetah and Baloney on White/Beckey's Wall.
Protection
Slings for trees, runners for rope drag, standard rack. There are 5 pitons on the last pitch.
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