BETA PHOTO: 3 Amigos (climber just below the crux) with Mexica...
Description
Thanks to several recent ascents, this has cleaned up quite a bit. The rock is still gritty and sharp, but it isn't chossy. The vegetation has been removed, making for a more pleasant experience. Climb up the finger crack systems on the right face of the corner. This is a technically challenging and interesting section that can be made easier towards the top by chimneying in the corner. Once safely established on the ledge, sink two pieces before making your move on the heady crux. After all, you don't want to break your ankles. Once in the midst of the crux, you're ankles are in jeopardy, so have your TCUs handy (my ankles are grateful). Lieback, barndoor on a sloper up to a stance and reach for a jam. You're practically done, so hike through the remainder of the crack to the anchors above the bigger ledge. Don't despair if your head won't let you attempt the crux, you can lead up the corner and try the safer top-rope alternative. This route is best climbed in groups of three.
Location
Between Mexican Crack and Grunting Gringos, on the right face of the corner. Lower off of the anchors to get down. This is not the bolted line along the arete with the fixed lost arrow, that would be Grunting Gringos.
Protection
Small nuts and cams. Save some small TCUs for the crux to protect from ledge fall. Two chain anchor at the top. Two long slings will help to reduce rope drag.
This is a nice warmup for those who are looking to get ready for Mexican or if Mexican is busy. Then do Grunting Gringo's - its really fun and has recently spent some time with the Wire Brush.
This in no way is a 1 star route. It's a great finger crack to a really touchy move up top. Keep your ass out of the chimney for maximum value and commit to the moves off the ledge without getting too far right on chicken heads: there's a great transition from fingers to lieback from a not-so-good stance but the gear is solid.
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