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> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower Two
Social Realism
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 56
votes
Routes in Tower Two
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Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desp-Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Falcon Corner Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Insane in the Brain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Gary Olsen, Chris Pendleton and Stuart Ruckman, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 4,293 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Brough on Jul 15, 2006 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route makes the drive, the hike and the risk of being struck by a large falling rock in the Shooting Gallery...WORTH IT! Continuously difficult for the rating, vertical with technical and commiting movement, complete with an airy finish and a view to remember. The limestone is golden colored and not as compact as other routes. There are still a few loose rocks on this route.
Location
Climb up the Shooting Gallery (the gully between Towers 2 and 3). The talus is loose here and gives way to a ramp. Social Realism is the second route from the left on Tower 2. The belay ledge is decent.
Note: The Ruckman Guide shows this to the left of The Big Chill, but it's wrong.
Note: The Ruckman Guide shows this to the left of The Big Chill, but it's wrong.
Protection
8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor with multiple slings and 2 rings (shared with The Big Chill). A few small pieces up to a .75 bd help protect the start. I would also recommend a yellow Metolius in a 4 inch slot for a belay anchor, just in case the leader falls before making the first clip. WEAR HELMETS!
8 Comments