The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This climbs up the right side of the obvious ovehang in the middle of the wall. It stays consistent most of the way. It starts with a wide crack, that thins out to some face climbing (crux). Then is works the arete a bit and back into the crack just right of the overhang. The crack above the overhang is a blast as is the face finish. The crux is very delicate and is protected with brass, so be careful. However, IMO, it was not runout like the book claims.
Location
Just right of Equipment Overhang Left.
Protection
Standard rack, heavy on the small stuff. I used one brass and 2 small aliens, and a WC Zero. Chains at the top.
By David Shiembob From: slc, ut Sep 9, 2006 rating: 5.10b
This thing is fun! Definitely not R, it protects fine, but thin gear at the crux, like Nathan said. I protected the hardest moves with a 00 C3 (not mine, but now I gotta buy a set I think) and a blue metolius TCU. I thought the crux was moving from the face/corner to the arete, but that whole section was pretty hard.
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Aug 2, 2007 rating: 5.10b
You can save money and use two bomber small nuts (~3 stopper) at the crux. Also if the crux gets to easy (never been for me - always exciting!), I've watched people stay in the corner the whole way!
By Drew Bedford From: Wasatch Back, UT Aug 15, 2008
No way does it deserve a seriousness rating. There's gear the whole way. First, there's a whopping threadable flake before the crux. The placements at the crux have gotten better over the years. What used to be RPs at the crux are now small, but bomb-proof stoppers.
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