A fine piece of rock that climbs like a sport climb with gear placements. Seems like you get a good pump on this one but it eases up at the very top. This route is the first part of Mother of Pearl which can be divided into three pitches.
Location
On the right side of the gully you have to walk up and under a large collapsed boulder. About 60 feet after is another collapsed boulder where Unreliable starts. The route is 20 feet left.
Protection
Set of cams from #3 camalot down to yellow tcu. Some may like a few medium nuts.
i don't think it really deserves an R. The guide book gives it one b/c before Old Reliable fell off, the opening sequence was 10' above a broken block landing. Now it's right off a nice flat gravel landing. The pro is less obvious than most LCC cracks, but you can get in a bomber piece every bodylength or so.
Got on this for the first time today, seconding, which was a good thing. I didn't fall, but wow, not my idea of a nice trad lead, for me at least. The bottom section seemed very heads up to me. Gear is possible and everything, but you better be on it, as you're placing from the crux stances, and you're close to the ground, but still high enough to get hurt.
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