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Lizard Head Wall
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Squeeze My Lemon 

5.7

   

FA: Dave and Scott Lunt
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 1,503 page views

Submitted By: Rob Hyldahl on May 10, 2006


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Squeeze My Lemon follows the nice hand crack in th...


Description 

As you approach Lizard Head Wall, this climb is the obvious vegetated splitter hand crack located on the east side of the wall. Start in the bushes on a right slanting ledge that gains a flaring splitter crack. Fire up this, surmounting the large foliage to a beautiful hands splitter. Continue following this crack until it trends left and runs out. Make a step left into a short dihedral with......you guessed it......great hands again. Follow this to a tree anchor. Descend the route easily with a 60m rope from this anchor (the webbing could probably use replacing).


Protection 

protection to 2" with extra hand size pieces



Photos of Squeeze My Lemon Slideshow Add Photo
adam in the meat of it....

adam in the meat of it....

da bottom of da lemon...

BETA PHOTO: da bottom of da lemon...

shaun just past the cool traverse

shaun just past the cool traverse

Cool crack to crack moves on this one! A very enjoyable lead

Cool crack to crack moves on this one! A very enjo...

Elaine walking the line

Elaine walking the line


Comments on Squeeze My Lemon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 19, 2009
By Jonathan Scoville
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 18, 2009

CONDITION REPORT 

Warning: Lower bolt at anchor has a loose nut. If you plan to do this climb, please bring a wrench and tighten the nut.

By Nathan Fisher
Aug 27, 2006
rating: 5.7

Great climbing that is unfortunately interspersed with a couple of vegetated spots: a small tree and a series of bushes. The bushes being the worst. Very fun jams, and the traverse left climbed great as a hand traverse. This could really use a set of anchors to avoid totally killing the small belay tree.

By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.7

The anchor for squeeze my lemon has been replaced and moved about 15 ft higher to finish out the crack. 2 bolt anchor. The tree is just about dead and is growing on a death block at the top of a flake. The block should be moved in the next week. WITH THE NEW ANCHORS ONE 60 METER ROPE MADE IT TO THE GROUND AND THE NEXT TIME WE CLIMBED UP THERE, A DIFFERENT 60 METER ROPE LEFT THE ENDS HANGING ABOUT 10 FT OFF THE GROUND. I am going back again this week with yet another 60 to try to get a better read. A 70 for sure reaches as well as using 2 ropes to get off.
I have also cleaned up the crack so it no longer has any vegetation growing in it. This is a great 5.7 crack climb.

By tenesmus
Nov 27, 2007

This makes a really good first 5.7 lead and is perfect for teaching people how to hand jam. Sews up with a standard rack using nuts and cams but an extra set of hand sizes takes some thought out of it. Bring a few long runners too. That block at the top looks fine but when you move the last cubic foot of the large spike behind that tree a seam appears showing how loose it is. The new anchor also makes it a lot easier and safer to TR Errant Edge with its nice red granite edge climbing.

By Sir Camsalot
Mar 19, 2008

Fun route with some pretty cool jamming. The only vegetation I saw on the entire route was the large tree growing in the crack 10 ft off the ground. A 60m rope from the new anchor reaches the ground just fine.

No stars in the Ruckman guide.....two now that its cleaned up.

By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 13, 2008

Fun climb now that it's mostly defoliated. Worth checking out.

By Sir Camsalot
Aug 20, 2008

With so much cleaning going on up here, why not remove that bush in the first 10 feet? this would be a much better climb with out it.

By grk10vq
Aug 20, 2008

"With so much cleaning going on up here, why not remove that bush in the first 10 feet? this would be a much better climb with out it."

thats a good idea! and while we're at it, why not chop down the remaining forest and pave a trail to the base.

By grk10vq
Aug 20, 2008

"SirCamsalot" wrote then deleted:

"grk10vk wrote; "Thats a good idea, and while we're at it, why not chop down the remaining forrest and pave the trail to the base"

Wow. Coming from a guy who cleaned 30+ feet of LIVE scrub oak from Zesty and (really did) chop down multiple trees that shrowded the base of Sqeeze My Lemon and Errant Edge...that seems like a pretty snotty comment. Are you a hypocrite, or just a dick?"

1. if you're going to quote me, please do it correctly. for starters i know how to spell the word forest.
2. if you did your homework you'd see i had nothing to do with the zesty but express my opinion of it's suggested grade.
3. for the record, i did not cut, lop, axe, or chop a single tree while i was up there. i'm a tree humper not a tree hater.

you know what they say when you assume, it makes an ass out of you and well...just you in this case.

and to answer your question; i am not a hypocrite, the latter however, is up for debate.

By Sir Camsalot
Aug 20, 2008

Are you not Dallen? If not, then I apologize for calling you both a dick and a hypocrite. I thought you were one in the same. Carry on with said tree humping and I'll take my F- for homework done.

edited to note: I don't think dallen to be either a dick or a hypocrite....never met the guy, I was only calling out what I thought (and made an ass of myself in doing so) was a blatent contradiction of ethics based on comments made and I'm going to STFU now.

By Ben Folsom
From: Sandy, Utah
Aug 23, 2008

It is a tree (Mountain Mahogany), not a bush and should not be removed. It makes a nice jug, from the picture it looks healthy.

By tenesmus
Aug 23, 2008

geez steve, you're taking a beating on this one.

By Sir Camsalot
Aug 23, 2008

naw...just opinions. i just figured with all the "housekeeping" going on up there a small bush wouldn't be missed. Guess i was wrong.

and yes, i'm a douche for mixin up sunny-d and grk

By Sir Camsalot
Aug 23, 2008

Ben, are you arguing that because its a tree, not a bush, then it shouldn't go? Or because it provides a great hold? Like those trees on the first and last pitches of Pentapitch?

And SGileadi, are you aware of how many "bushwhack crack-like" trees were removed from Zesty? A route you've climbed and liked?

I'm not tryin to stir the pot here...but can someone tell me the difference between route maintenance and raping mother nature?

By Paul Anderson
Aug 23, 2008

I caution your community in farming out routes. If it’s a danger to climbers then by all means, but if not, why? I would encourage preservation to enhance the canyon for future generations. The tree looks tame to me.... Anderson

By Sir Camsalot
Aug 23, 2008

not losing my head at all...thats why i dislike online conversations...too hard to read the other person's intentions. I was just wondering where that line is drawn. i too think some gardening is great and i like how that area has been developed in the last year or so. I was just suggesting something that is going to happen eventually, especially if that area gets the traffic that it should. this route is awesome, but i give that tree 5 years max.

By Ben Folsom
From: Sandy, Utah
Aug 23, 2008

Sir, I guess I hold more importance to trees than shrubs. Although that is just a personal opinion and there is no good reason for it. I haven't even done the route, was just looking at the picture and it looks like the tree is a nice, interesting feature of the climb. I was just kidding about the hold, although I usually do use trees if they are growing out of the crack. I don't mean to stir anything up either. I don't have any personal knowledge of the route. From the picture it looks like the tree doesn't get in the way.

By Sir Camsalot
Aug 23, 2008

point taken

cheers!

By zoso
Aug 31, 2008
rating: 5.7

Wow. I haven't looked at this for a while.
I helped Dallen clean this line a little. I did cut off a little of the left side of the tree--strictly to make the climbing enjoyable. We decided not to take the tree out completely or to trim the right side as one would almost never want to climb the crack in that direction anyway. We agreed (as do others apparently) the tree added character to the route and should be left. And of course the less gardening the better--for all.
Just thought I'd confess to the holy ones (heh heh).

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 22, 2008

I thought this was one of the best 5.7's I have ever done. Other than the slightly gritty start, the whole thing is really clean now. I was really impressed with the quality of the climbing. The hand crack right below the imfamous tree was worth the hike alone. Thanks for all te cleaning efforts. Way to go guys!

By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
Nov 22, 2008

Great climb. Better than Bushwhack Crack, in my opinion; it's more varied and more interesting.

By Judson Widner
From: Park City, Ut.
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.7

Great crack, lots of variety on the moves. This protects well with many different sizes of camalots, and a few runners are handy. The tree/bush is alive and well btw!!

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.7

A great climb thats worth checking out! Like Tristan said, it is fun and varied. Finishing on the beautiful splitter makes me want to go climb zesty now.

By Jonathan Scoville
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 18, 2009

Super fun climb. This was my first 5.7 hand crack lead. Excellent variety, and a few committing moves. If 5.7 is your grade, I would definitely recommend bringing a standard rack up to BD #4 or possibly #5 (for off-width at very top of climb). In addition, make sure you have at least one extra in sizes .5 through #3. I took 3 hexes to compliment my sparse rack of cams and nuts, but found that the crack didn't really take BD hexes well. Rapped off with two 60m ropes.

By tenesmus
Oct 19, 2009

Thanks for that bolt warning. I've tightened it twice but obviously it isn't working. I'll replace it in the next few weeks. I need some Mike White assistance to help me figure out why this is happening. Or some LockTite.