BETA PHOTO: 1. Part Time Crack 5.5 2. Blue Collar Crack 5.9+ 3...
Description
The south facing wall that lies between the Altered States Gully and The Fin. Although lacking in shear quantity of climbs, this wall does offer the climber a couple quality crack lines as well as an absolutely delightful slab climb. You will almost certainly be guaranteed solitude as well.
Getting There
We followed the approch to Altered States Gully which included finding a cairn about 100 feet to the east of the church archives road. The cairn marks a good trail that puts you high in the gully. We then dropped down the gully until an westward traverse can be made to the next south-facing wall. This is it.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lizard Head Wall:
There is a better trail that follows the fin approach trail. 50-ish feet from the road cut left by a carn. Follow the trail through the woods. When you come to a big opening with a boulder sitting in the middle of it follow a faint trail, on the west side of the boulder, up the hill through an opening and up to the base of the climbs. 10 minute approach tops. As of right now there are 9 climbs that I know of in this area. 5.5 to 5.11b/c
For those wanting to find a good place to tr some routes this is for you. You can scramble to the right of the butress and back to its top via a ramp system that offers amazing views of Altered States gully. From there head east to the anchor of Redneck slab to tr that and a short rap to the second pitch belay of Blue Collar crack with the faces to either side.
If you go west you can belay (behind a block) your partner as they do the easy 5th class down climb to the anchors of King Lizard to TR that.
There is an insane OW around the right of Errant Edge, facing East. I belayed Tristan H. on a very gallant attempt that ended on the main overhanging OW. I know some other guys worked on it later the same day. Does anyone have any knowledge about this line? It seems impossible that such and obvious line hasn't been done by now. If not; wow...what a proud FA it would be.
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