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The Fin
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The Dorsal Fin 

5.10d

   

FA: George Lowe and the late Mark McQuarrie 1965!
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Season: Not in the hot summer
Views: 2,003 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 26, 2006


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Dave Bowling snags the famous chicken head at the ...


Description 

The crux of this fantastic route will be quickly discovered at the end of the first pitch. Slab climbing technique will be the only key to this route. Like the Ruckmans mention in their guidebook, one can not imagine doing this back in the day in hiking boots. Hardmen from Yosemite would try themselves on this route when traveling to or through Salt Lake City. To quote Wasatch Climbing North "One hopes this route will remain an inspiration for all climbers." I would dare to add that you are not a true Wasatch Climber if you haven't sent this formation.


Location 

Sneak through the trees above the Vault road and make your way up to the gully above. A path in the trees was cut a few years back, but may be grown in. Scrambling will be needed to get to the base of the Fin. In fact, take a day hiking to the base of the route to get familiar with the approach. If you fully understand the approach, take another day and climb the route.


Protection 

Slab climbing skill and new sticky shoes. A small rack of cams, nuts, and quickdraws. One rope will get you down the rappel of the gully next to Intensive Care Slab.



Photos of The Dorsal Fin Slideshow Add Photo
Not the greatest pic... But here is Boissal crushing p1 of the Dorsal Fin.

Not the greatest pic... But here is Boissal crushi...

Shayne Durfee leading the business on the Crux pitch on the Dorsal Fin. Its not this steep thats just the way the photo came out.

Shayne Durfee leading the business on the Crux pit...


Comments on The Dorsal Fin Add Comment
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By Tea
Mar 27, 2006

BBBBBBBBBURLY!!!!!!!!! throw an extra pair of shorts in your pack...you may need them after the 1st pitch. Amazing...and very beautiful. A fine tribute to those hardmen of yesteryear!

By Boissal
From: UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d PG13

One of the best routes I've done anywhere, bring your slab mojo and freshly resoled shoes! You gotta wonder how the FA managed to stick to that mirror... Balls of steel were most likely a part of the equation!
The crux on P1 is quite spooky and peeling off while getting to the chickenhead would be sad. I felt like there was another slightly easier crux above the 2nd bolt when traversing right into a groove. The start of P2 also feels a little runout with a bit of exfoliating granite to keep you on your toes, but once you get in the crack above it's pure goodness to the top. Check out the antiques pounded in the crack, there's some creative stuff in there!
I placed a whole lot of nuts on the upper part and micros + cams up to #1 I think. Long runners help on the zigzagging 1st pitch. Wear long sleeves if you've never done the approach, there's some gnarly brush to trash through if you wander. Leave the packs at the sandy platform described in the approach, the scrambling to the base is quite tricky. We hauled the packs up there and had to rap of the huge dead pine to avoid downclimbing this section in the dark.

By Allen Sanderson
Oct 3, 2009

Note: the two Lost Arrows on the second pitch are lose and should be trusted. The pins should be replaced with thicker Lost Arrows which will maintain the historic aspects of the climb. (I.e. do not replace the pins with bolts!!!!!!!!).

By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 4, 2009

I think you meant "shouldn't be trusted".

Next size larger pin, and then what? Next size after that? A bolt makes more sense in the modern age, and, will limit piton damage to the rock that's obviously going on.

A pin is only "good" for the person who placed it. After awhile they all turn into junk. Only the FA gets the FA. After that, well, maybe these classic routes should be maintained with gear that makes sense, not bigger and bigger pins which will continue to rust away and get loose like the previous ones.

No one is doing that route in the style of the FA folks (huge kudos). To expect folks to carry a hammer and pins on an established classic free climb is kinda silly. Scared silly. Ha ha. Cheers!

By Ben Folsom
From: Sandy, Utah
Oct 5, 2009

Maybe if the arrows are cleaned properly (without much downward hammering), some decent small nut placements could result. Just an idea, I can't remember those pins or the crack they are in, so it may not work, but maybe worth a shot.
Better a decent small nut placement than a pin or a bolt.

By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2009

Micro cam might work too in a large enough pin scar. Especially a fat lost arrow.

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 6, 2009

I recently climbed this magical route for the second time and personally believe those pins are not a big deal. By the time you get to the second pitch corner, it feels like 5.0 If those pins are really loose try to tap them in. If the pin remains loose, pull it and try to fit a nut. If a nut doesn't fit, send a new pin home. Bolts should never be added to this section.

SN

By Bill Bones
From: Somwheres in ooohtaaa
Nov 7, 2009

I climbed this today, the best climb in the canyon. Proud send in hiking boots. I checked the first piton on the 3rd pitch. It wiggled and I pulled it out really easy. I would have replaced it if there were not a fantastic chicken head to girth hitch. This does not to be replaced, the chicken head was better than any piton. Not to mention forget the PG13 rating does this mean i have to check with my parents before I climb if Im under 13? George didnt rate it PG 13. LONG LIVE THE WASATCH!!!!