Awewsome route!!! It is located just to the left of where touch up and Gordon's Hangover starts. Some people start in the actual corner of Gordons and others start on the face. I did it starting on the face and thought it is much more classic that way. The Landing is good if you blow before the first bolt and the moves are really cool. After the third bolt is clipped it eases up a lot, although it still can be pumpy(or it least it was for me), at the top. For only a 60ft route it gets some good exposure. All in all well worth the hike! Good luck!
Protection
5 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. (Same as Touch Up.)
About 90% of the people i've seen climb this thing start out of the corner. I think it's harder that way. Incedentally, the jug did not break off, it was pulled off by a local hardman. I still think ALL CHALK is still 12a.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.12a
face climbing in little cottonwood doesn't get any better than this. 5 starz
pulled a huge piece of rock of this route yesterday. It is above the crux so it won't change the rating I believe. It is up by the third bolt, maybe a little above it, still some pretty suspect rock up there. Makes me wonder about the quality of the rock that some of those older bolts are in.
By David Shiembob From: slc, ut Sep 27, 2007 rating: 5.12a
Woohoo, my first .12. Great vertical climbing. The bolts are kind of manky for such a classic route. People with more experience than me feel it's right on at .12a. By the time you clip the 3rd bolt, the hardest part is over, the missing rock hasn't changed that. I remember reading Performance Rock Climbing and seeing a photo of someone climbing it in there, it was listed as .11d!
boulder problem (crimpy but straight forward) to much easier climbing... most of boulder problem avoided by starting in dihedral, easier start, more akward but easily protected by bolt
My first 5.12! Don't cheat yourself, start on the face and avoid the corner;it is way cooler. The sequence is stellar and is well protected. Beautiful vertical face, Granite, wonderful location...it does not get much better.
Surprisingly chossy for such a classic with a number of loose holds that are on their way out... Starting in the corner seems silly when there are plenty of holds on the face. The crux features sharp crimps, polished feet and long reaches. Anchors, upper 2 bolts and 3rd hanger replaced on 10/23/09, the rest of them are sound. Whip away!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
