This is another classic put up by the Stiffler's Mom duo....Tyler and Luke. Again, they put a lot of time into route preparation and cleaning and drilling quality anchors, and done on the lead! Kudos!Approach: As for Pentapitch and then go left to Coalpit Buttress. Same start as Sumatra. In fact, these first pitches of Sumatra are actually the same as Precious Lost! This is about 100 feet to the left or east of Endless Torment. I guarantee you will enjoy this route...I personally have to try something else this summer!
Pitch #1: Up the left facing corner for 10 feet, out onto the slab and then belay at 2 bolts on a ledge. Well protected. 5.10b(?), 20m. Pitch #2: Continue up and right passing some jungle gymnastics to a tree anchor. 5.7, 25m. Pitch #3: Move left and step up onto a ramp and climb the ever widening crack. For this pitch if you struggle on fist and wider slab cracks, take additional bigger cams if desired. Belay at a big ledge from blocks. 5.7-8?, 40m. Pitch#4: Traverse down the ledge and to the left (east) to yet another left trending ramp. Pass a piton to a very fun finger crack that you wish would go on forever, pass some bolts to a cramped belay ledge by a shady tree. 5.9, 35m. Pitch #5: From here, you will see the last moves of Sumatra out left. Traverse out a leftward crack towards that last bolt on Sumatra without clipping it, and then go up and right after clipping a fixed angle piton. Pass through a blocky roof to more moves to the left protecting with gear mostly to another roof. this I thought to be the technical trad crux, especially if you don't carry enough Jr. Camalot size cams! Surmount the roof laybacking your way up and right to easier ground and a huge tree with slings for the belay. 5.10c(?), 30m. Pitch #6: Over the roof at the start to a wonderful and clean slab passing several bolts. Trend left (as always!) to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 30m. Pitch #7: Kind of perplexing! Pass a bolt, then go the line of least resistance through a roof on the left. We went to the right and it was unprotected and wild!!!! Once above the roof, go right to two bolt hanging belay where the only good rock for a stance existed (apparently). 5.8, choss, wavering 20m.Rappel straight down and eventually join the Stiffler's raps. I vote and agree with Tyler that a nice rap line should be installed in the future to enable really straightforward descent here.
Protection
QDs and good assortment of cams and nuts to #4 Camalot.
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 23, 2005
Correction on the last pitch.After clipping the bolt take the undercling flake to the left then go straight up and slightly right to the dihedral. Climb straight up this passing a loose block ( be careful it will funnel down Stifflers!!!) to the "top". Go dead right 15 feet ,look down this is the rap anchor. I put it there because it will line up w/ the rest of the raps for the route. A word of EXTREME caution. On the 2nd rap be very careful not to knock ANYTHING down, it funnels into Stifflers Mom. Take a 70M. rope if you want to maximze enjoyment. The 2nd rap takes all of the 70. Or bring 2 50M. You can run the 1st and 2nd pitches together and the last 2 together. Aim for Pungy Gumbies for the 3 pitch, the start is from the same base. I personally wouldn't give the route 3 stars but it is pretty damn fun.
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 23, 2005
On the descent you rap from the above stated. And end up at the base of the 5th pitch of Stifflers. In the near future you will rap Sumatra back to the base. We were on Stifflers when JG was rapping from above and even his ginger feet knocked down alot of death blocks from walking to the top of the raps for Stifflers. So don't Do it!!! Will let ya'll know when this rap is installed.
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Sep 14, 2005
I really don't think Precious Lost is 5.10, more like 5.10- not really any C on the route. And I feel the first pitch is 5.10a. But I suck @ rating things, but would call the route 5.10a if pressed.
By cobra kid From: Salt Lake City, Utah Jun 7, 2006
The crux pitch is a bitch for us short,round guys,(Lurpus Maximus aka Tyler Philips has it made). (I still think it ranks as a 10+ crux, but I'm 5'6") This is definitely a great route worth checking out. Fun moves, butt puckering cruxes, and that great feeling of being very high off the canyon floor. A lot of work has been put into this route and we get to reap the benefits. If you haven't done this route yet, it is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. Thnx to T.P. (for my bung hole) and Luked
Enjoyed this climb earlier this spring. Suggest to those unfamiliar with sub-grades to rate as 10-, 10, or 10+. Thought 1st pitch to be 10- and crux to be 10. Did not see any 5.10c terrain on the route.
Precious Choss has some good climbing, especially the ever-widening third pitch (it's worth climbing the route just for those handstacks). Kudos to Tyler and Luke. However, I have these words of caution:
1. If a party is aleady on the route, strongly consider going elsewhere, as rockfall is a very real and serious issue.
2. Do NOT linger near the bases of any of the routes on Coalpit Buttress (due to rockfall issues).
3. Be very careful on the route as much of the route is surrounded by areas of stacked, loose, rock.
4. Although the actual difficulty is mellow, this is an adventurous route, for those who can routefind through potentially dangerous, loose terrain. It good to know before you go that this isn't like doing Pentapitch or the Thumb.
5. The rap down Sumatra from the top of pitch 5 was too far for my 70m rope, I came up about 2 meters short and had to lower off the bolt above. Others must have done the same because there was a biner and rap ring on the bolt.
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Aug 10, 2007
I was around when dave budge was climbing this route. My partner and I were on stifflers mom when we heard what sounded like an avalanche.I have never seen such an enormous amount of rock fall. Definately dont linger at the base.
So, that rap needs a little TLC. We did one short rap to that first station and then a long one down and left to the top of the 5th pitch of Stifflers. Potentially, you could rap the first two pitches of Precious lost and down the great ledge between DoggyStyle and Stifflers. There is a tree right between the top belay and the top of Stiffler's 5th but we had no extra webbing...
We ran 1&2 4&5 and then 6&7 together. But you gotta know there will be serious rope drag right at the very end of #5 no matter which way you tackle that little roof.
Also, I liked the flake moves on that last pitch but the rope drag going back right from the bolts was burly. Its a total conundrum because the climbing is good over left with the bolts but the anchors needed to be where they are due to rock quality.
Finally, I think Tyler is right - there is nothing harder than .10a - so don't be intimidated by the grade. Nothing is sustained either - its an adventure route and a fun one at that.
CoalPit Buttress
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