From the top of P1. Avoid the angle/rope drag at t...
Description
The Fin Arete is a bit heads up, with many good sized runouts. Really have your slab technique together, or bring a rope gun - like I did! At the base of the Fin, the Fin Arete starts on the left side. Scramble up a broken ramp to find a suitable belay stance.
P1) Climb through 6 bolts of rather runout friction climbing. A small leftward traverse is found at the fourth bolt, and also the crux of the climb. Belay at a fixed anchor, bolts. 5.10b
P2) There are two ways to go on this pitch. We did the Dark Horse variation, so I can't vouch for the original route. The Dark Horse is awesome, highly recommended! To do it, climb slightly right from the belay to a bolt. Another bolt is usable to the left a ways, and then do a big runout up through a small roof. One more bolt leads to an intermediate anchor. Don't stop here, instead continue up the exciting prow (1 bolt, runout) to another bolt anchor in a dish. 5.9
P3) Continue up the prow, thin and runout at 5.7. Pass one bolt, then the climbing eases to 5.5 for a long run up to the anchors (this pitch is almost 200 feet I bet, and communication is difficult). The anchors are to the left of the arete, and a bit hidden. 5.7
Descent) We had a 70m rope, but the rap should be possible with a 60m. Rap down to the left of the Fin to a sloping ledge system. Easily downclimb the ledge to another dropoff. There are some hidden anchors next to a tree. Rap one more time to the main gully between the Fin and the Church Buttress. It is a hike out from here.
This rap puts you at the base of the Intensive Care slab and the Gargoyle. Hit these up if you still have the energy and time because the approach is far by LCC standards!
Protection
There is a spot to place a tcu before the first bolt on the first pitch, but otherwise this climb is exlusively bolt-protected slab climbing.
Hi,"sport climbing at its loosest?" Tell that to Brian and Jonathon Smoot who vetured up there on lead to drill those bolts not really knowing if there would be adequate stances, not knowing just how hard it could be. I may be too old school, but to me, sport climbs denote rappel and drill routes that are done that way primarily for safety sakes. This is what you call old school slab. The definitions of these may elude some people but it is very important to know. Gary
Excellent route. Finally got up there today, and climbed this. First pitch is THE pitch.Thin, continuous, thrilling. Second pitch has a bolt just after the first 5.9 move that is below the roof. Don't forget to angle right to the 2nd bolt on this pitch.
Tack on the first pitch of Shock Trauma and you've got yourself a nice easier 5.10 slab day. The first pitch is fabulous and gives a great view of Dark Horse.
As Gary Olsen said, this climb should not be classified as a sport climb. It could be very misleading to the unknowing. This route was established on the lead in traditional style, definitely not a sport route.
Another amazing Smoot & Smoot classic. Easier but way more heads up than the Dorsal... The main runouts are right of the belays, making for some nerve-wracking opening moves on each pitch. On p1 clip the 1st and 5th bolt with extra long runners and you'll be fine. Fun meandering back and forth across the arete. The Dark Horse variation is a bit more run that the regular route although a slung chicken-head at the roof will provide psychological pro. If it doesn't fall off as soon as you move above it :)
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