GREAT CLIMB! can be TR'ed relatively easily. grea...
Description
The obvious dihedral. Some awkward climbing leads to a great hand crack which goes to fingers and finally to OW, which can be liebacked. The starting variation to the right is called Handeater.
Protection
Medium cams and stoppers. A #4 Camalot will fit in the OW at the top.
Can we say classic. Great climbing on great rock with great gear. This climb deserves to be climbed every year. Hell, every week. Cams are nice, but not neccesary Leave that large cam at home, and just run out the finish. It would protect the finish, but it also is very pumpy to place. I found it easier to deal with the 20 footer possibility instead. Pick your tactics on this finish though, as has been said, either an offwidth (bloody knee jam) or a pumpy lieback (my choice).
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.10d
sweet jammin. try lie-backing the hand eater for fun.
Can we also say beached whale..? IM sure there is a very stylish way to pop out of the top but for me it was a nice hook of the foot and a hoist of the body. Not so pretty but a very fun route none the less.
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