The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-a-Finger 2) Black and White John and Mary...
Description
This is the route roughly in the center of the main wall, easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. But once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared buttcrack excitement. This is a great route for someone wanting to break into 5.11 trad climbing.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.11a
favorite lead on the wall
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 6, 2006 rating: 5.11a
I would disagree with the assertion that this is a great 5.11a break in route. It's a great route, it is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly straight-forward. At least half of this route is sutained hard 5.10 climbing. A green Metolius helped me commit to the finishing move.
I missed whatever pro might have been available after that second bolt definitely whimpering by the time I finally got to the chains. I felt so close to taking that big ride out into space, but I didn't. Great route, I fell once at the crux, so didn't quite get the onsight. It was my first 5.11 trad lead, I thought it was a reasonable break in route, the only .11 climbing was protected well by that bolt, but definitely a lot of .9-.10 climbing on the route too.
Dihedrals Area
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