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Black and White John and Mary 
Equipment Overhang 
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Equipment Overhang Left 

5.11a

   
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FA: FFA: Jack Roberts and ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Views: 778 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-a-Finger 2) Black and White John and Mary...


Description 

This is the route roughly in the center of the main wall, easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. But once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared buttcrack excitement. This is a great route for someone wanting to break into 5.11 trad climbing.


Protection 

Stoppers and cams to 3", two bolts.



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The crux... (2002)

The crux... (2002)


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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a

favorite lead on the wall

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.11a

I would disagree with the assertion that this is a great 5.11a break in route. It's a great route, it is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly straight-forward. At least half of this route is sutained hard 5.10 climbing. A green Metolius helped me commit to the finishing move.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 18, 2006

I missed whatever pro might have been available after that second bolt definitely whimpering by the time I finally got to the chains. I felt so close to taking that big ride out into space, but I didn't. Great route, I fell once at the crux, so didn't quite get the onsight. It was my first 5.11 trad lead, I thought it was a reasonable break in route, the only .11 climbing was protected well by that bolt, but definitely a lot of .9-.10 climbing on the route too.