Leggo My Eggo 

I think an argument could be made to call this a three star route. The 'mottled' face is an excellent line on a very cool rock formation. For a visiting climber to the slc area, climbs like this will stick out in their memory. Very unique, with a wonderful position looking down from the anchors. That said, I would also like to recommend this climb to 5.8 leaders as the 5.10 section is short and can easily be french freed / aided. Above the first two bolts, the climbing sticks to the lesser grades of 5.7/5.8.

There are now chains at the top. A two-move sequence of 5.10a climbing, with consistent 5.7-5.8 climbing above. The runout keeps it exciting. This route is still a great route, just not consistent enough for more than two stars.

Almost forgot, a 70m rope is not quite long enough to get you to the bottom. So, use common sense... 2 ropes or 1 70m rope with a knot tied into the end and a 10 foot downclimb. If you opt for the downclimb, aim rappellers right, just right of the large crack.

Not consistent??? What is that suppose to mean? Visiting climbers, "Climb this route!" It is a Little Cottonwood classic.

(No offense Nathan...that kind of comment is the purpose of 'side comments.')

No offense taken. All I meant by not consistent is that it starts off with a couple of fun 5.10 moves, and then steps it down a bit to a consistent 5.7-5.8 route. It is still a great route that deserves to be climbed, but... it is not consistent. The semi-runout above makes the easier sections more heady which is what makes the climb a great route. But I stand by my "not consistent" description. I could be wrong, and probably am; however, I am just stating my opinion, as were you. Sometimes we agree, sometimes we don't. No biggie.

Too long to rap down from the new chains at the top with a 70m rope. Instead, use a long runner at those chains and traverse to the Variety Delight chains where a single rope will reach. (at least that's what I did today...)