This is the perfect thin seam crack that runs up the Perhaps Area wall. It starts on top of a nice, sunny, flat perch called the "Sun Deck Boulder". Start either with a direct 5.10a start (pro might be difficult to get in), or better yet, traverse in 15' up on a nice foot shelf. Work up the crack placing mostly small stoppers. The climbing gets easier higher up. Anchors are on a shelf 80' up.
There are two more pitches to this climb, but most people rap after the first. I haven't climbed them, but pitch 2 is supposed to be 5.6, and pitch 3 is a 5.7 squeeze chimney if you should want to try them.
Protection
Very small gear. 2 sets of nuts and offsets would be nice. Also, very small cams are helpful.
Beautiful line!!!! I led this for the first time a few days back, just amazing. The 10a start isn't too bad, but it almost felt harder at the 5.9 crux. Can't wait to do this one again.
I only give this 2 stars well for my own hidden reasons. I am with-holding the final "possible" star until I do the route in it's entirety. Alright!! I will tell you my reasons. The climbing wasn't varied enough and the exposure wasn't present. Like I said let me climb the entire route and it may become 3 *'s
Otherwise an exciting climb. The original start is fun , but the direct start is not much harder.
Alright, it gets three stars. But only if you do all three pitches.
Pitch 2 goes from the anchors up the easy scramble, past a set of anchors on the left (Base of Meat Puppet), and up to and past another set of anchors (Prepositional Phrase). It continues up, to the left of the tree around the right of the prow, and up the crack with a green face to the right to a 3 bolt (2 old, 1 new) anchor. The best part of this pitch are the two right-facing cracks. The first being just below the Prepositional Phrase anchors, the second crack being green face crack. Pitch 3 is a fun (lol) squeeze/offwidth. The trick on this pitch is to find gear. We placed a red Metolius at the base of the crack, a #2 Camalot( our largest) just before the crack deepens and widens, and a small nut in the horizontal crack on the left wall. Bring really big gear, or run it out. The other question is do you face right or left. Both my partner and I did it differently.
The anchors at the top are again 3 bolt (2 bad + 1 good). We left a sling as all slings were dead. We then rapped, with a 60-meter, to the east aiming for the Prepositional Phrase anchors. We were about 10 feet short, so be careful or better yet, rappel to the north and the other 3-bolt anchor, and rap off that one to gain Prepositional Phrase's anchors.
Definitely beware of the old bolts. Oh, and also, the piton on the final pitch is absent (this is where the small nut went). Finally, it was very wet still in the squeeze.
Definately 3 stars in my book, especially if you skip the last pitches! Mislabled as "Serenity Crack" on the cover of Climbing magazine's Trad issue (the Natural line) a few months back. I love this route, I think it is so pretty, and always a classic worth doing every spring and fall. Thin nuts, thin feet, thin jams...OH YEAH, this is what LCC is all about!
Looking up at this thin crack you think "no way"... but somehow there are just enough fingertip holds and fingerjams to get you up. It actually protects fairly well with little nuts. One of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.9
Beautiful line. There used to be a back breaking boulder to land on at the bottom. glad it's gone. excellent finger tips and slab feets as i've t.r.'d it w/out touching the crack and bare foot using only the crack. there's a good blue tcu spot right off the ground makes a good directional to keep all those tiny stoppers in the crack
Do yourself a favor and don't bother placing gear down low. Boulder out the 10a to the toe rail rest about 12 feet up...place a few good nuts, and blast it, placing great nuts. 3 stars...anything less is robbing this gorgeous slab climb.
Not recommended in 105 degree heat. We thought it was going to be in the shade most of the morning, but damn were we wrong. Greasy shoe rubber and sweat pouring from everywhere made this seam quite a humbling experience. Lesson learned.
This is a great climb and I would highly recommend doing the .10 start it makes it just that much better and it is only one move of 5.10. Pro is great climbing is great just a awesome route.
great route- definitely spicy if you want gear down low. bring the small stoppers, dont bother with anything bigger than a yellow tcu.
By Judson Widner From: Park City, Ut. Jun 12, 2009 rating: 5.9
Wow, great finger locks! It's all small stuff, and good slab feet for placements. I didn't place anything bigger than a # 7 BD stopper a bit higher up.
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