Running low on chalk early, I eye the distance up.
Description
To the left of Pentapitch, the route is rarely occupied.
Getting to the first bolt after slotting a nut or two and sinking a tcu to begin the leftward movement puts you on your toes. Sidepulls and smears get you to the first-pitch belay. The second pitch is a bit harder but is protected well with 2 bolts and a old pin.
did this route the other day, wonderful climb! What is the bolted line starting just right and shares the end section of Torment? Used HB's in several locations, considered them more bomber than tcu's in a couple of spots.
Great route with a bit of variety, some spicy protection, and delicate moves. I got off route and did the (Endless Seagull?) variation. After the 5.10b crux, I wandered left on to Lesbian Seagulls, and did that 5.10d d-d-d-delicate move, past the two bolts.
Good to do both pitches in one lead, as there are no chains at the first belay, and it is otherwise a bit short. It is possible to get down from the top with one rope (with rope stretch! so tie a not) and you wind up just behind the tree at the bottom. From the first set of anchors, I climbed up through two bolts and traversed right across the face to the undercling. A bit run out on thin moves, but very exciting!
A must do pitch on the circuit. Too bad it now sports a poorly located bolt down low, placed by some total nutsack not involved in the FA. Great full pitch.
That bolt is useless, there's pro 6" from it. The climbing is really fun and quite technical, especially for the 9+ given in the book for the first part. The slaby moves to get to the first belay feel quite spicy since your last micro is a ways down. I'll be back to do the second half
RSS Feed
Slideshow
