Dragon Arch is a relatively remote area, that doesn't see many people. We saw two mountin goats almost right at the base of Lunar Tick, the day we went. Due to the lack of climbers, the rock is a bit gritty in spots, but not too bad. Most of the routes require some gear, with Lunar Tick being the exception. Not a good spot for kids either as the approach involves a length of 4th class slabs and gullies.
Getting There
Park approximately at .35 miles up canyon from the sign, hiek up a loose hill and follow the obvious trail, up and beyond the spike boulder. Continue up and a bit east as you need to approach from the gully to the east of the cliffs.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dragon Arch:
Pitch 1. Climb the first 10ft of Valentine Crack then move right into V groove. Up this then right again past a bolt. Carry on up cracks to just below the top where instead of the wide gravel chimney, finish left and up the easy groove. 5.10 110ftPitch 2. Layback and undercling the right facing/curving corner. 5.10+ 70ft ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch.
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
