BETA PHOTO: The Sail. Bong Bong is the wide-looking (actually...
Description
Between the Coffin and the Egg but high above, the Sail offers some interesting climbs which are quite challenging for their grades.It is mostly trad with a few bolts on one of the routes. The rock is pretty good but could benefit from more traffic. Since its so high off the road it is probably the best crag for winter sun in LCC.You can walk off to the west but we like to bring an extra rope and fix a single rope rappel off a block at the top. There are no bolts on top, but Castaway has an anchor with a new bolt just below the top (no rings though). All the routes are worth doing. The bolt(s) on the far right are not in the book and are probably some unfinished project.
Getting There
Access is up the gully between Tick Fever and Hong Wall and there is a bit of scambling (and heavy breathing) involved.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Sail:
The Sail gets far less traffic than it deserves!It took us only 30 minutes to get there recently, and trust me....my cardiovascular fitness level is rather sad!
With a 60 m rope, you can rappel from a sling around a large horn at the top of Flying Dutchman.There are rings on slings now (11-20-05), but be prepared to back them up.A 60m just makes it, so make sure your rope is centered and tie the ends together to be safe. Extending this anchor with slings is a good idea if you're planning to TR Flying Dutchman.
The newly built/renovated trail to the egg makes this approach even easier. Start up the trail for crescent crack buttress, then look for a trail heading off to the right just before the trail to the coffin. The trail switch-backs a few times, passes just under the hong wall, and ends up at the left side of the egg. From there it should be less than 15 minutes to the sail.
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