Mountain Project: Climbing Wasatch Range

Submitted By: Jonathan Schumacher on Mar 26, 2003
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 40.5733 Longitude: -111.7710
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Description

The climbing here consists of both sport and trad, mostly trad.The rock is bomber granite, similar to the rest of the canyon. Some of the classic routes are: Mexican Crack (.10a), Crescent Crack (5.7), Crack in the Woods (5.9), and Hand Jive (5.8?).You can rappel most routes from the top of the climbs with a single rope, except Crescent Crack, which is descended east into a gully. Buy beer at 7-11 at the base of BCC, or better yet, go to Wyoming!

Getting There

Drive .25 miles up the canyon from the neon sign at the base of the canyon. Look for a powerline that crosses above the road and park along here. Look for some wooden steps that lead north. Eventually, take the left fork and a short jaunt leads you to the base of Waterslide. Head left for the climbs.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crescent Crack Buttress:

Crescent Crack 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet

Lazarus 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II

Hand Jive 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Crescent Crack Direct Variation 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Final Link 5.9 Trad, Sport, 120 feet

3 Amigos 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Mexican Crack 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Lunge or Plunge 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Multiplicity 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Who's On First 5.10d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Featured Route For Crescent Crack Buttress

Final Link 5.9 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Crescent Crack Buttress

Stem up through the spike from the Crescent Crack Direct variation and clip first bolt. The crux here is to not pull on the draw and do the cool mantle onto the slab. Clip next bolt then set up belay at the two bolts. Beautiful slab that wanders a bit left and right. runners could be helpful on a few of the bolts to reduce rope drag. If done as the finish to Crescent Crack this route has it all....[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Crescent Crack Buttress

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By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Mar 15, 2009

I was at Crescent Crack Buttress this weekend and discovered a chiseled boulder at the intersection of the trail where you go left to Crescent Crack Buttress or right to the Egg. The rock has two arrows with black tar in them and the words "Hong" and "Egg" chiseled in. It looks as though the criminal didn't finish carving "Crescent Crack Buttress" in. Maybe their wrist was tired. I've been climbing here since 1994 and I've never seen this graffiti.

THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE! PLEASE STOP!

Little Cottonwood does NOT need signs. If your are the person doing this, please stop. In fact, go back and attempt to remedy your shameful act. If you know the person(s) who did this, please beg them to stop.

With such descriptive guidebooks to the area, we do not need signs to help navigate to the crags and routes. I have found my way around crags throughout the western United States without signs. If I needed a sign I would go to Veyo, of the Gym.

Once again, please stop carving the rocks of Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Sincerely,

TROY D. ANDERSON

By Bill Bones
From: Somwheres in ooohtaaa
Mar 16, 2009

I have seen this rock too. I believe it is new either this year or late last year. This cannot happen. Please, if you are not thinking of what the repercussions could be for this act, check out other areas that are no longer climbable. PLEASE stop this. It is Graffiti no matter how you look at it. It is destroying and defacing rocks. PLEASE PLEASE STOP.

SHAYNE DURFEE

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