Little Cottonwood Canyon

Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress

Description 

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and CoalPit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

Ice Climbing 

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There 

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

The Classics

Featured Route For Little Cottonwood Canyon

Trinity Right 5.12a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Green Adjective Gully

The route goes up the right facing flake to under the big roof, and then traverses right via a wild undercling to the anchors. Going straight up is 13a Center Trinity, with a few bolts. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Little Cottonwood Canyon Slideshow

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Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....	view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...	Looking up LCC from Maybird
Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...	Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...	The Pfifferhorn.
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...	What its all about. Good friends, good beer, and ...	The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...
Leading the second pitch of the grooves. The bolt...	The sunset on 9/11/08 in LCC Black Peeler showing	Looking up LCC on 9/11/08 around sunset
sun set	BETA PHOTO: Bottom of LCC.	Heeey Goat!
I love this place.