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The Dirge 

5.11a

   
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FA: Unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 510 page views

Submitted By: Zed on Aug 8, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: 1) Final Prayer Variation
2) The Dirge



Description 

This route shares the same start as Invocation and Final Prayer Variation, then follows a straight path up the gently overhanging wall. The line is short and continuous, with a strenuous clip at the third bolt. Be careful if you fall at the crux, because there is a dead tree leaning almost directly into the flight path.


Protection 

Three bolts and anchors



Comments on The Dirge Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.11c

4 bolts on this line and a very painful pocket greets you as you near the top.

By Boissal
From: UT
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a

3 bolts. Didn't see any stud or hole, I wonder where the 4th one was... I took the ride from the very top, flailing within reach of the anchor, and ended up around the first bolt. Felt quite weird to come down about 2/3 of the rout but the fall is clean and I got a plush catch.

The climbing is pumpy with long reaches and gnarly feet but a lot easier than it looks at first (good crimps are lurking).
The section above the last bolt is weird, barn-door moves with slick feet and strange crystal pulling where every hold faces the wrong way. One of these lines where you might peel off even after you've hung draws on the anchor!

By Ben Folsom
From: Sandy, Utah
Jun 25, 2009

There never were four bolts, just three.

The tree in the route description has been gone for a while. The route is good and safe now.