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The Watchtower

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The Watchtower

Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Views: 13,484 page views

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Jeff Olsen on the Dehumanized 5 11 Photo by Greg M...


Description 

The Watchtower is the most popular crag in Ferguson and is the first one you come to. Most routes are trad with a few good sport routes. The wall is steep with horizontal seams. Most routes have good anchors for a single-rope descent, and a few have a steep walk-off to the west. I've set up Extreme Unction as a top-rope by rapping down from the top of Watchtower Proper which sits above Watchtower, but it's a big hassle.


Getting There 

This is the first crag you will come to after hiking 15-20 minutes up the canyon from the trailhead on Timberline Drive. The Watchtower wall comes right down into the stream so you may have to hop some rocks to keep your feet dry when the stream is high. The steep gully on the right (west) end that you come to first is the walk-off for some of the first routes. The routes are numbered west to east along the wall.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Watchtower:
Inner Light   5.7     TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Hellfire Variation   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Imperial   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Extreme Unction   5.10a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Fire and Brimstone   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Total X   5.10a/b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Uncensored Society   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Final Prayer Variation   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
40oz causulatie   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Conflict   5.10c/d     Sport, 90 feet   
The Dirge   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Repeat Offender   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Fortress   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Grommet   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Steel Reserve   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Fishlips   5.11d     Trad, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Watchtower

Featured Route For The Watchtower
Above the staircase on Extreme Unction in Ferguson Canyon.

Extreme Unction 5.10a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Watchtower
Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Comments on The Watchtower Add Comment
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By Eric Jacobsen
Sep 26, 2003

Eric, what are you talking about? Most of the routes on the first section of the Watchtower are easily toproped...

By Alec
Nov 3, 2009

This area needs to be split up into subsections -- it contains lots of routes not really near the Watchtower and in easily separated sections.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2009

Add the subsections and then let me know which routes to move where. I'll take care of the moving for you.