Pitch 1: Locate the first bolt about 20' up from the base of the chimney/gully. Climb up past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, clip the anchor and climb up through a steeper juggy crack. Follow the weakness to the top and a 2 bolt anchor. This is a pretty fun line, with the crux getting to the first bolt, and mostly cruiser climbing after it. Good candidate for someones first trad lead.
Descent: Rappel the route with one rope.
Location
This is located on the E face of the Talk Buttress. Best approach is from the base of the The Dead Snag, and a short hike up the next gully to the west until it ends in a chimney/gully. It also can be approached from the Talk Buttress proper with a downclimb of the chimney below the start of Look Who's Talking.
Protection
A bunch of slings/QDs, and a small rack of nuts and cams to 2".
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 10, 2009 rating: 5.7
Requires two rappels to get off if you're rappelling back down to the base of the route.
Also makes a nice 100 foot sport route as the first fixed anchor is at 100 feet.
I wonder who put this up and when? Well painted chain and bolt hangers. Nice hardware, well placed. Washer stacked anchors have gone the way of the dodo though...
Hey climbing world, how the TRuck have you been, I am going to make a resurrgence, beware!! The maker of the "Nick of Time", retrievable rock anchors that are NOT bolts!! Randy Kieliszewski, Contact (rakffa@hotmail.com) will be bringing the "N.O.T.s" back to LIFE, Cheers!! FUTURE FIRST ASCENTS is ALIVE and well! ROCK ON!!
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