This is the first bolted climb to appear on The Sea Of Glass Wall. As Pat was one of the first climbers on this crag, we were both very impressed that this fine and fun (and mostly blank) right line had yet to have its flanks developed! The first 6 bolts were drilled on lead, but both of us felt the Ravages Of Time (which subsequently results with decreased boldness?) coaxed us into completing the drilling from above. Maybe too, hooks skittering off of the glass like quartzite had something to do with it, as well.
A very unique route with pockets and edges on excellent rock located on the steeper and smoother and crackless wall to the right of the pre-existing trad climbs SEA OF GLASS and GLASNOST.
This climb will prove popular if one is able to combine with other climbs in the area to compensate for the heinously steep grovel to the Mule Hollow Wall. Why don't climbers like zig zag type trail approaches? It's a burner, or again, maybe we were just feeling the Ravages Of Time?
Pitch #1: Follow about 10 bolts up the face to a two bolt belay. 5.9, 30m
Pitch #2: Up and left to a shallow hole past a few bolts then straight up to the final belay ledge. Adds more, but less spectacular, climbing to this unique climb. May be linked to first pitch for a longer climb. 5.7, 15m.
Location
Rappel the route with one 60m rope. Ravages Of Time starts up the shiny glass-like wall in front of a huge Doug Fir tree. The tree does not interfere with the climb at all.
Protection
QDs and a #2 or #3 Camalot may be useful near the top of the pitch.
Didn't feel like a 9+ to me. Maybe if you are exhausted from the approach. Compared to Fowl Play on Bumblebee, supposedly a 9, this was quite easy. The candy cane tree is gone. Hike for about 20 minutes on the main trail, your left shoulder rubs a big boulder, then turn left. There was a cairn today at the turnoff. The talus field is pink stone with the trail running along the left.
I sense you might have been on one of the upper Mule Hollow Wall routes. At least that is my guess, as I know of at least 5 different parties who have climbed it(who don't post on this climbing minority voice of MP) and most thought it was more like 5.10a, than 5.9?? I, too, have climbed Fowl Play....this one is at least as difficult.
I think it would be an easy mistake to make....The Sea Of Glass Wall is a bit obscure and off the beaten path....easy to miss, and hence why we were able to put up such a pleasant little route on this only until recently unclimbed section of rock. Sure is a nice place to get away from it all, though
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT May 21, 2009 rating: 5.9+
What cool rock on this one. This is a great addition to the wall. 5.9 seems about right.
Great route. 5.9+ seems right to me. It felt harder than Implorien. We combined the two pitches into one and it worked out well. Great moves, great rock, fun holds... Awesome.
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