A short, pumpy warm up climb for the longer routes to the right. The well-protected crux is surmounting the first of two roofs in the middle of the crag.
Location
On the south facing side of the Salt Lake Slips, Nosferatu starts up just to the left of the pine tree 20 feet to the left (west) of Salem's Lot. Given its location, its length, and its pump factor, this fun climb should prove to be popular.
Protection
4 bolts protect this short pitch to a two bolt belay anchor on top.
By MarkEMark From: Cottonwood Heights, UT May 5, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Short, pumpy, and fun is a great description. There are a few loose holds as you head up the roofs, so pull carefully. But with some traffic, this should clean up a bit. Good addition to the area for sure.
the second bolt is located too close to the edge of the roof, resulting in potentially levering the biner's spine to the breaking point if one were to fall there.
The anchors need the chain extended a bit as well, as the current setup is less than desirable.
I will be happy to adjust the chains at the next opportunity, but I should hope anyone feels more than welcome to lug the chain up themselves and make the desired adjustments...especially if you enjoy TRing and lowering off the chain. "Correcting" or "bettering" belays and top anchors are always fine with me! thanks
I went back, enjoyed the climb alot more than before, but despite being armed to the teeth with chain, links, extensions, etc. I just couldn't figure out what the problem (as described above) with the anchor was?? The only conceivable way that the lower bolt could possibly be leveraged would be if it was the only bolt clipped...and who does that at the top anchor of a two bolt belay??
I left it as it was....seemed righteous enough to both me and my partner??
By Jonathan Scoville From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 9, 2009 rating: 5.10a
I didn't think this was any harder than Witchhunt. Didn't really have an issue with the chains either. There is a fun mantel move at the top if you are in the mood.
fun route, it had some loose rock, the second and third bolts were very close together, it felt pretty easy for 10b
By mattjbudd From: West Valley, UT Sep 18, 2009 rating: 5.9+
This climb was pretty cool. 5.10b is probably too high, when you compare it to witch hunt, dog pile, or chambered nautilus. Thanks James for putting these wonderful climbs up! It sure makes for an enjoyable time. One day you'll have to show me how to bolt routes. ;)
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