Maudlin  5.7

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  James Garrett and Glen Kaplan, 21 November 2007 New Route:  Yes Season:  When weather permits Submitted By:  James Garrett on Nov 22, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Matt on TR

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Description 

This bolted, moderate line adds some variety and choice to the few well-protected and very well-traveled routes on this popular wall.

Pitch #1: To the left of the main cleft or dihedral which is to the left of the popular Italian Arete, climb up a slight spur of rock passing two small roofs on mostly big, climber-friendly holds. Continue to the top of the wall to a two-bolt belay. 5.7.

Very much moss, lichen, and small bushes were cleaned off this face. Traffic will clean it up even more. This is a long pitch; if it is really desired to top rope with a 60m rope, a further option would be to partially climb Maudlin only until the leader is even with the chained anchors to the right (Italian Arete/Entre Nous), then traverse on a very easy good ledge and lower from those anchors.

Another method for top roping long pitches is simply to tie another rope on. This is common practice in places like Indian Creek where most of the routes are longer than 35m, yet are frequently top roped as is the norm in sport climbing areas. Recommended to have two belay methods in play while passing the knot, when belaying.

Also, maybe this is a no brainer (and I am not trying to be condescending here), but the second rope needs to be taken up by the leader, lead rope into anchor and knot tied into 2nd cord. While still being held on belay by belayer, leader then rappels single line to ground. It's not rocket science, but I thought I'd explain for those who haven't climbed longer pitches before. Maudlin just might be a good candidate for your first.

Perhaps the name is somewhat derived from my partner's concerns that this route would be controversial.

Location 

This is on the East Face of the Salt Lake City Slips. An obvious bolted long line climbs between the Italian Arete and Forgotten Ambition (I think mostly a forgotten route, as well?).

This is a long route....longer than the average sport route in the vicinity and elsewhere in BCC. Descent can be achieved by walking off or by rappelling with a 70m rope (two ropes is probably better). Many of the bolts are glue-in stainless steel, so if you choose to rappel the route with one 50m or one 60m rope x two that would be yet another option.

Protection 

12 QDs. If it becomes the consensus that this line is underbolted and the 5.7 leader feels it is "runout" or "scary", I will certainly be amenable to adding bolts, if requested to do so. Comments from the climbing community who already frequent this crag are very welcome. I'd love to hear what you think. Too long?, too few bolts?, too many bolts?, mid-pitch belay?....etc. Thanks. My feeling is that many climbers new to leading the moderate grades outside will love this climb.

Photos of Maudlin Slideshow

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Matt heading up the slab.	Nice 5.7 slabbing.	BETA PHOTO: this is my 70m rope hanging from the anchors at th...