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Black Monday 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman
Page Views: 8,930
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Jul 17, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (132)
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Red Pointing!!

Description 

One of the funnest, steepest, most popular routes in the canyon. I worked this several years ago on a bet...which I eventually won by redpointing the route. Surprised myself that I could still do the moves, if not the whole route (yet). Super clean falls on well tested bolts. Clipping the bolt at the lip and pulling over on the slopers is the crux. This route is way overchalked and needs a serious scrubbing!!! Bring a brush and a squirt bottle for when you're done!


Protection 

Mostly big holds up a steeeeep wall. Individual moves aren't that hard...it's just a pumper, so don't be afraid to project this puppy!



Photos of Black Monday Slideshow Add Photo
Pete on Black Monday
Pete on Black Monday
Don't get pumped on this part
Don't get pumped on this part
black monday
black monday
Pulling the slopers after the crux clip.
Pulling the slopers after the crux clip.
getting to the top
getting to the top
pumper
pumper
flash it!
flash it!
Clipping on the crux!
Clipping on the crux!
Chalking up before the crux.
Chalking up before the crux.
On lead halfway up Black Monday.
On lead halfway up Black Monday.
Pete leading Black Monday
Pete leading Black Monday
Black Monday
Black Monday
get some
get some
Mark starting Black Monday
Mark starting Black Monday
black monday
black monday
Black Monday 1995
Black Monday 1995
Route follows the Red Line,  The Crux is where the climber is,  Most difficult part is clipping and having enough strength to climb through the crux clip.   Easy after you get above and out of the overhang.
BETA PHOTO: Route follows the Red Line, The Crux is where the...
Wide Angle Picture
BETA PHOTO: Wide Angle Picture
Comments on Black Monday Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alec
Jun 26, 2008

Bouldery start; use a spotter. Take a rest before the steepness then fire it quick. Crux is getting over the lip, don't be afraid to get creative.

By Steve M Miller
From: Park City, Ut
Oct 12, 2009

free carabiner on this route couldn't quite make it over the last bug pull (but an awesome route wish i wasn't so pumped when I started working it ) so had to bail fair game for who ever get's this biner it's just an old Omega Pacific figured i'd let some one know

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Mar 30, 2010

This is such a classic route. I didn't find pulling the lip to be all that hard. There really is no technical crux just a redpoint crux. You get pumped and the holds on the lip seam difficult, but really they are very positive. The trick to this route is to move fast and don't dink around.

By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Classic, good to spin laps on

By DTM
Sep 9, 2011

JUG HAUL!! Good route.

By Joseph Lascurain
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 16, 2013

A number of the hangers spin on this route. The hanger at the crux lip is the worst (made for a harder clip as I pushed the hanger around with my draw.

By Jonathan Cracroft
Nov 6, 2013

Timothy Jones and I just filmed a video of this route with some local female climbers. Enjoy!