i wish the chimney were bigger, as it's the funnest part. good route for trad noobs. rope drag is cured with a high first placement. i used a camalot #2. There is however a nosey tree halfway up. and a slightly undesirable traverse to the chains. still worth it.
By Mark Goodro From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 20, 2009
I think this is an undeservedly overlooked route. It's not a bad climb, the chimney is fun, the finger crack is short but interesting. It's a good TR if you build an anchor at the top - large gear is helpful there, up to a #5 Camalot. It sounds like the main complaint is the traverse over to the other anchor for descent - which I heartily agree does suck. I think it might be worth adding a bolted anchor at the top of this one - if for no other reason than to preserve the safety of the climbers below. It would be horrifyingly easy to knock large rocks down onto climbers on Salem's Lot and Witch Hunt if you choose to rap from the Witch Hunt anchor. A walk-off to the top of the Slips gully isn't fun either.
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