Clipping the chains at the top of Salem's Lot. Wit...
Description
This is one tough climb, steep and prolonged, with odd angles. What makes it worse is that the anchors are hard to clip into. But, when you get clipped at the top you will feel on top of the world.
Protection
4 quickdraws, and two for the anchors. Bring 2 small slings to clip the anchors as they are awkward to clip.
as I approach the chains, I have found there is an adequate right hand up high and right, which allows me to hang off a straight arm to clip my daisy chain into the chains with my left hand. I find this a key hold as most of the time I'm usually a little pumped by the time I reach the chains.
If you like bouldering problems at the gym, you'll love Salem's Lot. Lots of interesting body position required, with very positive holds if your belly button is pointed in the right direction. My crux was at the anchor chains. One caution: if you swing too much during rap/lowering, you find yourself bouncing off a rather large tree.
Fun... but clipping those chains is quite awkward.
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jun 9, 2007
Climb is covered in bat guano. At least 4 huge piles on the way up.
By john richards From: salt lake city UT Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.10a
easier than witch hunt in my opinion. far right pocket for your hand at the chains makes it easy to clip. Cleaning the route is what sucks. as you dangle there its hard not to spin in circles if your a short guy like me.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT May 18, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Fun blackmonday-esk climbing to yes an awkward chain set up. But a big right hand is ticked with chalk and there's a huge hand left of the left bolt.
Probably equally as hard as chamber nautilus which is 10a but this climb is more sustained.
I don't think we can judge the difficulty of this route against dog pile. The word on the street is that dog pile is severely sand-bagged. Also, this is definitely harder than wichhunt right next to it which has a 10a rating, so I would give this at least a 10b.
climbs like 10b-ish. It's a great lap route, more sustained than witch-hunt with no obvious crux. there are great edges on either side of the chains. you just have to feel them out. (way easier than dog pile in that the holds are all pretty much huge.)