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Salem's Lot 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1992
Page Views: 3,392
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 14, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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My partner in climb Todd Chapman at the chains aft...

Description 

This is one tough climb, steep and prolonged, with odd angles. What makes it worse is that the anchors are hard to clip into. But, when you get clipped at the top you will feel on top of the world.


Protection 

4 quickdraws, and two for the anchors. Bring 2 small slings to clip the anchors as they are awkward to clip.



Photos of Salem's Lot Slideshow Add Photo
Clipping the chains at the top of Salem's Lot. Witchhunt (5.10a) is just to the right of Salem's Lot.
Clipping the chains at the top of Salem's Lot. Wit...
Comments on Salem's Lot Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 20, 2013
By Vince Romney
Aug 5, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Just a bit of beta for the lead...

as I approach the chains, I have found there is an adequate right hand up high and right, which allows me to hang off a straight arm to clip my daisy chain into the chains with my left hand. I find this a key hold as most of the time I'm usually a little pumped by the time I reach the chains.

By Lee Gitlin
Aug 21, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

If you like bouldering problems at the gym, you'll love Salem's Lot. Lots of interesting body position required, with very positive holds if your belly button is pointed in the right direction. My crux was at the anchor chains. One caution: if you swing too much during rap/lowering, you find yourself bouncing off a rather large tree.

By vincent pierce
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Fun... but clipping those chains is quite awkward.

By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 9, 2007

Climb is covered in bat guano. At least 4 huge piles on the way up.

By john richards
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

easier than witch hunt in my opinion. far right pocket for your hand at the chains makes it easy to clip. Cleaning the route is what sucks. as you dangle there its hard not to spin in circles if your a short guy like me.

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
May 18, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun blackmonday-esk climbing to yes an awkward chain set up. But a big right hand is ticked with chalk and there's a huge hand left of the left bolt.

Probably equally as hard as chamber nautilus which is 10a but this climb is more sustained.

By Michael MacFadden
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I don't think we can judge the difficulty of this route against dog pile. The word on the street is that dog pile is severely sand-bagged. Also, this is definitely harder than wichhunt right next to it which has a 10a rating, so I would give this at least a 10b.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Sep 17, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

climbs like 10b-ish. It's a great lap route, more sustained than witch-hunt with no obvious crux. there are great edges on either side of the chains. you just have to feel them out. (way easier than dog pile in that the holds are all pretty much huge.)

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Aug 20, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Check out some footage.

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Aug 20, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

FYI, there was a key jug that fell off this route recently. I went there yesterday, and it was gone. It was a little jug right at the beginning where the overhang started. Before the hold came off, it felt like a 5.10a or 5.10b to me, but now it feels more like a 5.10b or 5.10c.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Aug 30, 2013

Really fun climb. Juggs and sustained. Crux for me was clipping chains. As before mentioned, big hold on right of anchors makes it a bit easier to clip.

By Kirk H
From: Murray, UT
Sep 14, 2013

This definitely felt like .10c. By the way, the last links on the chains are wearing thin. Anyone up for fixing this? I don't have the knowledge on how to properly do this (or the equipment I think I may need).

By Kevin A Lockwood
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

New glue-in and quick links added to the anchor by James Garrett and I on 9/16/13 to address the grooved chains and rusty bolt. Safe to climb if you were worried about the previous post by Kirk H.

By Kirk H
From: Murray, UT
Sep 17, 2013

Anchor looks great and is a solid setup now! Thanks guys!

By Andrew Warner
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Climbed this last weekend and came here to post about the sketchy chains. So glad to hear they've been fixed because this is a great climb!