This route is fantastic every time! One of the best 5.8's in BCC!!
There is a ledge about 25 feet up from the start. On the descent it is important to stop on this ledge and walk off around the side. You can NOT lower all the way back down with a 60 meter rope!!! So be careful.
Stuart & Ruckman's Wasatch Climbing Guide simply describes this climb as "Smooth as glass, vast as the ocean. The upper face is beautiful and continuous."
There are some excellent puzzles to solve on the way up, and it feels very, very exposed.
Some of the bolts feel pretty far apart as a result of the exposure.
Protection
9 bolts to the anchors. Various sized quickdraws and even a couple of runners useful as the route wanders a bit and rope drag can be bad.
It would be possible to deck between the second and third bolts (but not likely, as it is easy climbing around to the shelf), and also between the third and fourth bolts (because you are basically starting over again from the shelf, and could fall back down to it). This warning is not being issued as a scare tactic, but it should be issued because the possibility exists.
One of the bolts was a spinner (#5 or #6), also, the anchor consists of 2 bolts, neither looked great, and a flake. One of the anchor bolts was definitely bent. Nice candidate for a rebolt.
Agreed, about the space between bolts. Bolt 4 is "high" off the ledge. Although, the climbing is easy to get to Bolt 4, if you slip it will create an ankle injury possibility. Also, after clipping bolt 7, you can't see bolt 8, and bolt 9 looks really far off. Don't panic, for as soon as you approach bolt 8, it will become apparent.
A 70m rope easily gets you back to the base. This also allows you to TR Left Tributary (5.10d) and Right Tributary (5.11a).
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jun 28, 2008 rating: 5.8+
ditto the 70 meter. Had enough rope to feel comfortable.
It should be mentioned that the glass ocean traverses right on the ledge to the next bolt line. If you continue straight up you will be on Northwest Passage.
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Oct 2, 2008 rating: 5.8+ PG13
Surprised no comments about the crux? - passing the first bolt and clipping the second. Pretty difficult for 5.8 and the hangar is looking pretty worked. Be careful is 5.8 is your limit. Great climb though!
Be careful getting to the second bolt. Fell from here and decked, breaking two ribs.
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Aug 22, 2009 rating: 5.9+
I agree with Stan, the climbing at the first and second bolt I thought to be VERY hard for the grade... felt more like 5.10. Past the ledge it was smooth sailing, but that start made me feel a bit down... until everyone else climbing it that day agreed that it felt much harder than 5.8.
Did any ledges break off recently or am I just not seeing the right sequence?
By Taylor Ogden From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 30, 2009 rating: 5.8
Did this today, and it was a blast! Started out below on Left Tributary (5.10d/5.11a) then continued up Glass Ocean.
There are a few slightly run out bits, but it's never on anything really difficult, so I wouldn't stress it :)
Also, as of today all the bolts were indeed there.
if the description above scares you. a purple tcu placement is available between bolt 3 and 4 to give you some added anti-ledge-deck security.
By Taylor Ogden From: Salt Lake City, Utah Sep 4, 2009 rating: 5.8
I think it's worth mentioning that the three bolts directly below Glass Ocean, are not part of Glass Ocean. They are Left and Right Tributaries, and are rated 5.10d/5.11a.
Glass Ocean shares the same starting bolts as Northwest Passage, then takes a jog to the right at the ledge.
I suspect people don't realize this when attempting Glass Ocean, hence the comments about difficulty at the beginning.
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