This short crag has a few nice moderate trad routes, a one minute approach, and is very shady. The crag is also very streamside and some of the routes start directly out of the water. This makes for a very good summer crag for toproping or trad climbing.
Getting There
Beachball Crag is on the right side of the road a mile and a half up the canyon. It is shortly after Dogwood Crag, and just before the roadside bouldering on the Wave Wall. There is a pullout on the right just past the Ledgemere Picnic Area, and you can cross the stream easily to get to the base of the routes. Walkoff is possible on both sides of the crag.
There was a new route on the Crag next to (left of) the 5.10 and 5.8, kinda up the gully. Can't remember the names of the climbs. Someone chopped the bolts on it. Why would they do this? It was a face, with no possible natural pro. I thought it was a fun albeit easy route. Also there were chains for the 5.10 that goes over the little roof, they are gone as well. What gives? I understand maybe the chains for the 5.10 weren't supposed to be there or something. But why chop all the bolts off of such a fun little route? It was a totally legitimate route, and the bolts were placed well, I don't understand. Does anyone know about this?
A couple friends and I have recently been trying to clean this area up. A few weeks ago we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree that had fallen on Spf 25. it was a nice feeling knowing that I was the first to climb the route in several years. I also climbed the fat crack to the right of spf 25 and think I got a posible f.a. It goes at 5.9. I would like to call it The Beached Whale if I did get the f.a.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Sep 29, 2009
"...we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree..."
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