Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon MORE INFO >>>
I fondly remember the days of driving all the way to the Bells Canyon lower reservoir. Now a well known and marked trailhead has been established off of Wasatch Blvd. It adds some time to tha approach, but is fensed off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail
A profile shot from the east, with only pitches @P...
Description
The crux may very well be making it to the base of the climb. Kinabalu is a very wild and remote granite area in Sabah, East Malaysia. Get off the beaten path in Bells Canyon, and you may feel you've been transplanted to Kinabalu....though I recall less thrashing in Sabah!
No pictures of this beautiful Dome appear in previous guidebooks and the multiple domes and massive amounts of rock east of East Bell may lead to some confusion. In other words, I THINK I was on Waterfall Dome? I tend to think, at this point, that it was an unnamed/unclimbed/undocumented feature east of Waterfall Dome....if someone looking at the photos knows....?
Pitch #1: From a sandy ledge on the west side of the Dome, climb beautiful green patina passing 3 bolts to an easy roof and into a chimney. Now climb up the widening crack to a prominent huge detached apex of granite gaping to the south. Stand on the apex and find a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 32m.
Pitch #2: Climb the slab above to a bolt eventually trending right on knobs and chickenheads passing more bolts to a tenuous ramp feature and excellent granite to a two-bolt belay. 5.10, 30m.
Pitch #3: Climb the left facing dihedral until it ends. Traverse left on small knobs passing several bolts and cruxy, slab problem solving requiring skills to another nice left facing dihedral and mega sized chickenheads. Pass another bolt to a left trending crack and a few fixed pitons which ends at a pin/bolt belay ledge. The cash pitch... Chris wins the lottery! 5.10 A0 or 5.11, 30m.
Pitch #4: At this point, it is crucial to find the base of the next pitch....traverse/scramble up and left to the most arete appearing feature. Some schrub cleaning here may mark the spot. Some parties may opt to move the belay over to this ledge. Climb more delightful patina and big holds to a bolt and continue past another bolt to a two-bolt belay on a water-sculpted ledge. 5.9, 30m.
Pitch #5: Continue up the spur of rock passing several bolts and climb through a shallow u-shaped bowl. Climb through another easy overhang to some more fixed protection to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m.
Pitch #6: Slab up the water groove past a bolt and fixed piton onto the spur. Huge chickenheads and cruising low angle leads to a puzzling bolt protected step and the final two-bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
A short 50 foot scramble will lead to the ridgeline.
Rappel the route.
Protection
QDs, 70m rope works best for rappels or take two ropes, Set of Camalots to #3. Don't forget the Micro-Camalots!
Location
The top of the first pitch is the most recognizable landmark to find direction. A detached pillar, to the right of a massive right facing corner, topped by a rounded pointy apex is visible almost from anywhere in the upper canyon. Somewhat confusing, and I probably need to consult the Bell's Guru Brian Smoot, but this Dome is actually two up from East Bell. Two distinctively separate domes sit above and east of East Bell. This is the second one (farthest east), above and northeast of the waterfall.
NOTE: In 1985, together with my good Swiss friends Res von Känel and Koni Hari, we climbed Pilz Grind (wonder what we were eating up there that summer?) which was located, as far as I can recall, on the next Dome east of East Bell. The route Kinabalu is on the next Dome further to the east than Pilz Grind...all I can tell you aspiring area developers is that there is alot of unclimbed rock just waiting for you up there. Maybe you need to call me before you go up, though....just kidding!!!!!
No. But, I hope to go back soon to finish installation properly while re-climbing it with a partner, get my rope, and I believe the ratings will prove pretty accurate. Thanks for correcting me on it, I have adjusted the grade above to reflect the present nature....you are correct, I shouldn't get ahead of myself!!! Go up if you wish, and get the truly all free first ascent.
I like KNOTS (Kieliszewski's Nick Of Time) best....they are easier to remove after taking a fall or taking weight. I placed a regular RB in a route in Jordan in 2006, and when I repeated it in 2007, it was still there and in excellent condition (I still use it)....it had been used as part of the rappel anchor. In granite, they are incomparable for weight and I also have been known to later change where I want the bolt.....so easy to patch and make invisible. Did that often on Main Hellgate years ago. I love them and usually take as many as I can muster. They have never really caught on, but in high sensitive areas for example....(I placed regular bolts on a instantly popular short granite route on the main street of Wadi Rum, and these lasted about 3 weeks before some creative Bedouin found a way to remove the chain, quick links, hangers and even some studs.... to apparently re-use elsewhere...maybe he just wanted to display it on the wall of his tent?) they have many benefits, too. Randy Kieliszewki told me that he just couldn't sell many, but I bet he has a ton in his basement he'd love to sell you! Good to hear from you, JG
Nice work on finding that line up there. It sounds long too. This is why I'm jealous of your lifestyle. All that time to climb!
That's cool about the RB's. Know how to contact RK? on, and there is granite in wadi rum too? crazy place.
By michael layton From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 8, 2008 rating: 5.11b/c
Heads up, the rope and gear at the base aren't there anymore - thanks for letting us use the rope James - and great route. It'll clean up real nice and be a classic for sure. It's a bit spicy in a few spots, but mostly really well protected. I would not do it without either a 70m or two ropes to rappel - it was really really close with a 65m rope. We only brought up to a #1 red camalot, but a #3 would have made pitch 5 a hell of a lot safer. Kudos to freeing the 5.11 pitch - especially in hot weather. Bring a hard brush for some cleaning on that pitch. The grades were right on, definitely not soft. It would be better than Arm and Hammer if it had a Zion Curtain pitch. Bring a double legnth sling for pitch 6 to sling the giant chickenhead to avoid the run-out between the pin and the last bolt. James, if I was to add any gear, I would fix a pin on the 5.11 approach corner. A fall there would really f'up the belayer.
Pitch two is the best on the route and a ton of fun!
I tried to climb this yesterday. I bailed after the 1st pitch, which was really good. The next 2 pitches do some traversing and look pretty intimidating. But the main reason I bailed was the potential of falling back onto the spike of rock at the start of the second pitch. While standing on the anchor bolts I could not reach the next bolt. I was about 2' short of making the clip. So with my slab skills obviously not up to par, we bailed. I would recommend bringing a short stick clip. I guess I should of taken the golf club at the base as a hint that I may need it....hahaha.
Good suggestion James. I am glad you think that the move is hard. My girlfriend was not a willing partner for the shoulder stand and since she is only 5'2" I am not sure it would have been any help(guess we could have switched positions). But there are many ways I could have gotten through that section, I just wasn't feeling up to the climbing above at the time. I have been under the weather and the approach took a lot out of me.
The line looks great and I will definitely go back for it when I am feeling better.
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