It's rare in American Fork Canyon that you climb well above the tops of the tallest trees; this route combines fun exposure, a great, secluded location, and some good climbing.
P1 (5.10a, 70 feet) Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge. Look right about ten feet and slightly up and you can see the two-bolt belay anchor. Climb up, clip the next bolt, then traverse right and slightly down to the anchor. Granted it's weird, but it'll make sense for pitch 2.
P2 (5.10b, 80 feet) If the second is leading P2, its easiest for the second to just keep going rather than to traverse over to the anchor (you've got all the draws anyway). Follow three bolts up along an arete and then cross to the right side of the arete onto a slabby face. Traverse up and right through two more bolts to the base of a bulgy headwall. Surmount the steepness using fun moves while marveling at the view, then continue up to the anchor.
To descend, walk off down and right to the gully on your right. It's likely possible to get down using two raps, but since you brought your approach shoes with you, why bother?
Location
Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing Visionary Wall. Approach either by walking up the left side of the Visionary Wall gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Jul 29, 2009
The rock on this climb is spackled with tiny sharp edges that can really give great friction when you need to smear. The lower pitch has several small roofs with juggy moves. The upper pitch turns personality with edges on the blackish bizarre rock. There are some long stretch moves that are exhilerating. Amazing route.
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