A wonderful stemming problem in an overhanging corner.
Start up through the dusty beginning using small feet and lieback handholds where the thin corner crack opens up enough to accept fingertips. Delicate stemming with a big move or two is required to the fourth bolt (getting to the fourth bolt is a relief—it feels like a long way from the third).
At this point the angle eases a bit and the holds get bigger. Continue up and stand atop a ledge on the left, then finish with the last eight or ten feet of face climbing to the anchors.
Location
The right-facing corner at the bottom left of the gully.
Craziness! It looks like an easy finger-locking steep corner. The stemming put me in strange positions and the feet were either dirty or slippery. The bolts were close together on the easy parts and far apart in through the crux (weird). Altogether, it is fun as it is so unusual.
This thing is rad!!! I don't think I've ever done so many dropknees and other funky body positioning on any route. Seemed stiff for .10c but man, what a route!
By Jeff Jones From: Elk Ridge, UT Sep 4, 2009 rating: 5.10c
There are just some routes that words can't describe. I am not an AF guru but this has to be one of the most unique climbs in the canyon. It is also one that I think I will climb each time I go there. Clipping the 4th bolt is very committing. Emotionally I just know I am going to hit the ground if I blow it even though logically I know it won't happen. Walt is right...there would be a line if more people cared to go there instead of Membrane.
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