Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Then, using pockets and sidepulls, get past the smooth area and continue through another six bolts. There are plenty of pockets and a jug always seems to appear just when you need it. Just before the last bolt the pockets and feet get scarcer; after the last bolt the angle eases and you climb 10 feet of easy terrain to a ledge with the chains.
This is a pretty fun climb and worth doing. Even when Escape Buttress has been crowded I’ve never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).
Location
This route is located on a bulge about 50 feet before the west end of Escape Buttress proper and is one of three routes that you encounter on your left on the way to Escape.
This is the middle of the three routes; note that the bolts for the right-most of the routes are hard to spot. Looking at the bulge described above there is a smoother, blank-appearing area about 20 feet up from the trail. This route starts on the right of the two bolts at the bottom of the smoother area.
Protection
7 bolts, chain anchors (shared with the route to the left).
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Mar 21, 2008
I did this again today. It's a fun route—I lowered my rating from .10b to .10a.
By Jon Bitter From: Provo, UT Oct 11, 2009 rating: 5.10a
Watch out. A few feet right of the first bolt is the most gigantic pile of bat crap I have ever seen. It's a 4-5" tall mound that I almost took to be a handhold.
If you feel like there isn't anything to hold on to, try out the crappy looking pockets, you will find some surprising jugs and sidepulls.
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