The first three bolts are all big pockets. The crux comes near the fourth bolt (If I remember correctly) where you reach for a vertical rail with your left hand. have fun on this balancy little crux.
Location
just to the right of Primal Magic. It is the route that goes through the dark limestone. There is a second pitch (some do it in one) called the Juggernaut roof and it goes at 5.12b/c
sweet face climbing on good pockets. It's a breeze until the funky traverse at the third bolt. The crux is a big reach for the vert rail and pulling/smearing to the ledge above it for the fifth clip. the crux move aside, i found this to be a much easier red-point than it's neighbor primal magic.
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods May 31, 2009 rating: 5.11b
I found this one to be harder than suicide blonde. The route runs very smooth up to the crux just above the fourth bolt. Before the crux nothing feels harder than 10c, but try not to get out of sequence at the third draw. Once at the crux, you've got to fully extend to reach the pinch with your left hand. Try to get a high foot and then stand up. If you're having trouble with the crux section then you're missing some key holds. After that the route gets increasingly easier to the chains.
By mattjbudd From: West Valley, UT Jul 26, 2009 rating: 5.11b
This is extremely fun. The crux is perfect! The climb is juggy up until the crux. I let you figure it out. A must do!!
By Jeff Jones From: Elk Ridge, UT Oct 20, 2009 rating: 5.11b
This is a great climb and a must do for the grade. Not sure what to add other than this was very satisfying having worked on this climb off and on for a few years. I think the key is definitely the pinch and then not to forget your feet. Enjoy!
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