Just left of License To Thrill is a stiff problem that fires up to the left side of a roof. Route 66 has pumpy, fingery climbing on small pockets and edges. Crux was a bit below the roof and needed good contact strength - seems like you are always on your arms. The roof sequence is described as bizarre in the Ruckman/Ruckman guide. Tricky yes, with an overhead bolt to start, but it runs out once you stand up over the roof. Definitely worth a burn.
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Aug 19, 2008 rating: 5.12a
This has become one of my favs in AF. This climb has 2 distinct sections. The lower overhanging part gets the arms burning with hard moves in between good holds, the footwork (if you can find any feet) is the real puzzler. The lower part crux is at the 4th bolt. After you get past the pump on the lower half you are rewarded with a no hands rest. The upper half crux is getting past the large roof (i wont tell you how, you get to figure it out). Then you get to a jug and move left to some crimpers. This part is tricky because they are hard to see with some sloping feet. You finish it out on a couple of great jugs.
This climb is well protected except when you place the draw at the big roof. Go up left on jugs and clip it with a long draw with a locking biner at the bolt. The angle on this draw on a fall tends to open up gates.
The top chains have been replaced with mussy hooks for easy lowering. Its a great climb.
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