This is the longest route on the Eastern Reef apart from the Traverse of the Great White Wall P1) Climb the open slab that has a dark brown hanging slab at its top. 200' 5.4 P2).Drop down to the left then follow the edge of the slab. 200' 5.4. P3)Continue up the edge. 200' 5.5 P4)Move belay about 50'to the left to the foot of a chimney slot. Climb slab and crack then cross over righ to lower slab that's left of a wide crack. Climb over the step and belay near a large flake.200' 5.6. P5).Straight up the edge of the slab to a small spike belay.200' 5.4. P6). Up the notch then to a ledge with boulders. 200' 5.4.P7). Straight up.200' 5.0 P8).Continue. 200'5.0 P9).400' of 4th class to a fine summit. Descent:-Descend slabs to the south (4th class) to the notch then north down more slabs and gully. At one point about midway when the descent gets steep find a slot crack out to the left,which makes the descent easier.The descent takes about an hour or more.
Location
Drive about 2 miles from the I.70 entrance to a pull off just before a wash on the right. Walk about 10 mins to Little Spotted Wolf Canton.Walk through SWC just passed the Triangle slab of Dark Side etc to a long broken ridge on the left. Scramble up below the ridge for about 200'to the foot of a clean open slab.Cairn
Protection
Friends: #.05 to #3 Mostly for natural belays. Slings .One 200'rope
By Andrew May From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 26, 2009
Whats the pro like on this one? I've noticed lots of the climbs in the swell have earned ratings of PG13 and above. Does this one take gear well? It looks like a fun climb, and a good one to get the GF out on. Thanks!
I would not recommend this route if you have not climbed there and used to slab climbing.. Try 1000'of Fun if you want to experience a moderate route.I myself am not familiar with the term PG13 , many routes below 5.7 are run out
By Andrew May From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 28, 2009
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