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Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 83
votes
Routes in Prophesy Wall
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Antivaxers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beware of the Gong T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Caging the Zealot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Choo Choo Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dark Prophet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delta Variant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Easier for a Camel TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harbingers S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hunger + Thirst After TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Idle Chatter TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Interview with a Psychopath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunatic Cry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystic Dictator S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Omens S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Omicron Variant BA.2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Persecuted for Righteousness TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prescience S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quarantine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remains to be Seen S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Schizuphoric TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Seer Stone S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ship of Fools S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Social Distancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Technical Knee-Highs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thieves Karma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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True Believers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unforeseen Resistance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wafer Wash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Wuhan Bat Cave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | First retro bolted ascent: Todd Goss, Jerry Howard |
| Page Views: | 5,551 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Oct 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted.
Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
Description
{Perin's great sport description} Climb large, varnished edges on mostly less-than-vertical terrain. Two short sections of vertical or slightly overhanging rock keep things interesting. The crux is between the penultimate and last bolts. After the last bolt bear right to the anchors above the roof/arch. Rappel off or continue up the second pitch of The Roofs of Jericho.
There is one perfect hand jam, and a couple of places for tight hands jams. Some of the holds are intricately shaped and look somewhat delicate.
Note that Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists this route as 90 feet long. However, when I reached the chains I was about two feet short of the half mark on a 70 meter rope, which would indicate about 110 feet (allowing for the knot). Note that the rappel line is well to the right of the route line and ends on higher ground than the start of the route. There appeared to be sufficient rope remaining in the 70 meter to indicate that a 60 meter rope would work also for the rappel. {end Perin's great description}
Sadly this route was bolted over after an all gear FA was made in 1996. The name the retrobolters gave it reflects their true ethics of the crag, which is sadly overbolted.
If you have a rack and want to climb it w/out clipping bolts (it's the exact same line) bring many small and medium sized cams along with the standard rack up to #4 camalot. Small nutz & slings were helpful as well.
I do remember the start being a bit spicey, with a slung chickenhead or 2 then we(Pete VanSlooten and I)climbed to and belayed from the same ledge as Roofs of Jericho, but used gear for the belay (bolts now grace this ledge). We then climbed up and left following a chimney finishing on low angle patinas/crack system. Walkoff around the back heading north then wrap around to the base of the wall (south).
There is one perfect hand jam, and a couple of places for tight hands jams. Some of the holds are intricately shaped and look somewhat delicate.
Note that Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists this route as 90 feet long. However, when I reached the chains I was about two feet short of the half mark on a 70 meter rope, which would indicate about 110 feet (allowing for the knot). Note that the rappel line is well to the right of the route line and ends on higher ground than the start of the route. There appeared to be sufficient rope remaining in the 70 meter to indicate that a 60 meter rope would work also for the rappel. {end Perin's great description}
Sadly this route was bolted over after an all gear FA was made in 1996. The name the retrobolters gave it reflects their true ethics of the crag, which is sadly overbolted.
If you have a rack and want to climb it w/out clipping bolts (it's the exact same line) bring many small and medium sized cams along with the standard rack up to #4 camalot. Small nutz & slings were helpful as well.
I do remember the start being a bit spicey, with a slung chickenhead or 2 then we(Pete VanSlooten and I)climbed to and belayed from the same ledge as Roofs of Jericho, but used gear for the belay (bolts now grace this ledge). We then climbed up and left following a chimney finishing on low angle patinas/crack system. Walkoff around the back heading north then wrap around to the base of the wall (south).
Location
There is a light-colored, smoother-looking area right about the middle of Prophesy Wall. This route starts on the vertical bulge (not quite a pillar) that delimits the left side of the smoother-looking area. This is the second line of bolts to the left of the smoother area The first line ot bolts is the route Equanimity (which had its anchor about 60 feet up). The third line (to the left) is Ship of Fools, which has a 3-chain rap anchor about 60 feet up.
Protection
12 bolts, hangers-and-chain anchor. Note that Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists 11 bolts. The first bolt is low and kind of useless; like the rest of them...... perhaps it was added later.
Gear: Doubles on everything to #2 Camalot. Singles on #3 & #4 Camalot. A triple set up to #.75 Camalot is very nice. Full set of nuts w/ focus on smaller sizes, slings helpful.
Gear: Doubles on everything to #2 Camalot. Singles on #3 & #4 Camalot. A triple set up to #.75 Camalot is very nice. Full set of nuts w/ focus on smaller sizes, slings helpful.
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