This route is located on the far right side of Phophesy Wall. The first two pitch are 75ft long and are on good varnished edges (5.7, 5.8). There is a 2nd pitch variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun. The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).
There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. I did not climb this 3rd pitch , but it angles to the left to another set of anchors. Rap 3 times with a single rope to get down.
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Oct 11, 2006 rating: 5.10a
This is also a classic route for the area. It's goes in 3 pitches, and don't skip the 3rd .10a pitch. It's a great finish and is protected pretty well by 3 bolts. Pitch 1 goes at 5.7, Pitch 2 at 5.8, with options for a trad var. In the big corner on the left. Which would also goes at 5.8. Then if you don't bail on the 5.3 for the final pitch, You get a stellar 5.10a pitch. You bigger guy's take it easy on the starting flake for p3. It seems a little fragile (but doesnt all sandstone..?) 3 single rope rappels (60m) gets you too the bottom od this climb.
There's a variation about 7 feet to the right of this route with a separate set of anchors at the ledge for the top of the first pitch. I don't know if this is a new route or just a variation of Sticky Revelations. If felt like about a .7/8. I'm guessing that it's a variation to the first pitch of Sticky Revelations because it's such a popular route.
BTW, there are bolts all over this wall these days. It's like an outdoor multi-pitch gym.
There are now 3 bolted lines on the bottom pitch. I'm not sure but I think the middle one is the original line, although it felt easier than 5.7. The one on the left is a little harder with a thinner section in the middle and slightly overhanging finish. 5.7 - 5.8. Also, I think this pitch is about 90 feet, not 70. I highly doubt that you could rap it with a 50M rope.
This route is really fun. I really liked the long traverse on the bolted second pitch. Way cool. The third pitch ramp is super easy and has four bolts. The last bolt is about 5 feet from the belay anchors and I don't understand why it is there. Fun Route.
The variation to the right of the first pitch is called All Decked Out and does run at about 5.8. It is also really cool.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
