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Sticky Revelations
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 204
votes
Routes in Prophesy Wall
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Antivaxers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beware of the Gong T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Caging the Zealot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Choo Choo Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dark Prophet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delta Variant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Easier for a Camel TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harbingers S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hunger + Thirst After TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Idle Chatter TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Interview with a Psychopath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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King Bolete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunatic Cry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystic Dictator S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Omens S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Omicron Variant BA.2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Persecuted for Righteousness TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prescience S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pro Choices S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quarantine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remains to be Seen S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Schizuphoric TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Seer Stone S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ship of Fools S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Social Distancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thieves Karma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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True Believers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unforeseen Resistance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wafer Wash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Wuhan Bat Cave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Goss, Horn |
| Page Views: | 38,072 total · 148/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Oct 13, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted.
Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
Description
This route is located on the far right side of Prophesy Wall.
The first pitch is on good varnished edges (5.7, about 75ft). About 3/4 of the way up it reaches a ledge under a small roof, and passes around the left side of the roof. It finishes up to an obvious ledge with a bolts+chains+rings anchor (which is just left of the bolts+chains+rings anchor for the route "False Prophets").
The second pitch is also on good varnished edges (5.8, about 75ft). About 2/3 of the way up the original route goes sharp diagonal left following bolts-with-hangers to reach the two-bolts-with-chains anchor (for the trad route "Book of Prophesy") above the big right-facing inside corner.
Variation 2.1 -- There is a variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun.
Variation 2.2 -- Where the original route turns diagonal left, instead continue straight up past two glue-in bolts to two-bolts-with-chains anchor just below big detached rock face - (convenient if stopping after Pitch 2)
Variation 2.3 -- At the first bolt after turning sharp left for the final traverse, instead of continuing left, head straight up to a high two-bolt anchor (for Persecuted for Righteousness) just left of big detached rock face - (convenient for next doing the main 5.10 version of Pitch 3).
The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).
There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. It angles to the left to another set of anchors.
Descent: Three rappels with a single rope.
Location
At the bottom of the right side of the Wall, find a wide gentle solid-rock platform which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar.
Start on that rock platform about ten feet right from the right side of the pillar, below a bolt.
Start is shared with the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Above the first bolt (where "Breaking" goes left), this route continues roughly straight up.
- - > See line R in this Photo or this Photo.
The first pitch is on good varnished edges (5.7, about 75ft). About 3/4 of the way up it reaches a ledge under a small roof, and passes around the left side of the roof. It finishes up to an obvious ledge with a bolts+chains+rings anchor (which is just left of the bolts+chains+rings anchor for the route "False Prophets").
The second pitch is also on good varnished edges (5.8, about 75ft). About 2/3 of the way up the original route goes sharp diagonal left following bolts-with-hangers to reach the two-bolts-with-chains anchor (for the trad route "Book of Prophesy") above the big right-facing inside corner.
Variation 2.1 -- There is a variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun.
Variation 2.2 -- Where the original route turns diagonal left, instead continue straight up past two glue-in bolts to two-bolts-with-chains anchor just below big detached rock face - (convenient if stopping after Pitch 2)
Variation 2.3 -- At the first bolt after turning sharp left for the final traverse, instead of continuing left, head straight up to a high two-bolt anchor (for Persecuted for Righteousness) just left of big detached rock face - (convenient for next doing the main 5.10 version of Pitch 3).
The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).
There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. It angles to the left to another set of anchors.
Descent: Three rappels with a single rope.
Location
At the bottom of the right side of the Wall, find a wide gentle solid-rock platform which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar.
Start on that rock platform about ten feet right from the right side of the pillar, below a bolt.
Start is shared with the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Above the first bolt (where "Breaking" goes left), this route continues roughly straight up.
- - > See line R in this Photo or this Photo.
Protection
Draws, optional trad gear for Variation 2.1 hand crack on pitch 2.
The two lead glue-in bolts and the glue-in bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 are 316 Stainless steel 6mm twisted wire glue-ins by Bolt Products of Germany, through USA distributor Team-Tough.com. The two intermediate-lead glue-ins are 100mm / 3.9 inch deep. The anchor glue-in bolt is 150mm / 5.9 inch deep. Adhesive is Dewalt Powers AC100+ Gold in holes 0.5 inch diameter.
The other bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 is Powers 5-piece sleeve bolt about 4 inch long / 0.5 inch diameter, bolt + hanger 304 Stainless steel. Chains and quick-links are Plated steel. All installed 2019.
The other intermediate-lead bolts (with hangers) and the other anchors at tops of the pitches are of unknown composition and age.
The two lead glue-in bolts and the glue-in bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 are 316 Stainless steel 6mm twisted wire glue-ins by Bolt Products of Germany, through USA distributor Team-Tough.com. The two intermediate-lead glue-ins are 100mm / 3.9 inch deep. The anchor glue-in bolt is 150mm / 5.9 inch deep. Adhesive is Dewalt Powers AC100+ Gold in holes 0.5 inch diameter.
The other bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 is Powers 5-piece sleeve bolt about 4 inch long / 0.5 inch diameter, bolt + hanger 304 Stainless steel. Chains and quick-links are Plated steel. All installed 2019.
The other intermediate-lead bolts (with hangers) and the other anchors at tops of the pitches are of unknown composition and age.
![A-[[106056709]]<br>
B-[[106405783]]<br>
C-[[106603985]]<br>
D-[[106065711]]<br>
E-[[106918407]]<br>
F-[[106065730]]<br>
G-[[105718495]]<br>
H-[[106946604]]<br>
I-[[106944694]]<br>
J-[[107072538]]<br>
K-[[105718492]]](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/107072513_smallMed_1494163765.jpg?cache=1691187617)
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