This route starts up the West face directly under the window (the obvious hole in the rock). Climb up some good cracks (5.8) with a couple tricky moves and lots of jamming to the window. From here, jam out the overhang on good hands that quickly turn to tight bastard hands in the dihedral (5.10+). Follow this until you get to the bolt ladder protecting the chimney. You now must climb the weirdest thing in the world (5.10+ squeeze) - you will be horribly confused, but it's some of the best climbing in the desert. A couple unroped mantels on the summit (avoid the chipped edges on the first one for extra style points) lead to the top, and a gazillion new bolts (?). One of the best towers in the desert. Two double-rope raps get you down.
Protection
Bring a standard rack with a few extra #1 Camalots.
I have never climbed anything as funky as the O/W section on the third pitch of this route. Half your body is on one side of the tower and half is on the other, it is an amazing position. Absolutely one of the best desert towers around.
One of the best towers around? Whoa! Easy there! Whoa!
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 30, 2007
I noticed some strangeness on this climb when I did it.....which was with Lori Graff in the early 1980's. I believe to the left of the crack you climb on pitch one, there is a bolt ladder of studs with no hangers;...maybe the original way of the first ascent? We got our ropes stuck too....that was irritating. These towers in this beautiful canyon/valley are fantastic. Cool summit of a beautiful tower in a wonderful area......all good stuff.
By Greg D From: Redgardentown, Co Oct 8, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Great route. I highly recommend this route for the adventurous folk. Somewhat remote, very scenic, not well traveled, varied climbing with one of the most unique pitches I have ever climbed... "well" protected with mostly manky old bolts and pins. Rap 1 = 130 feet, rap 2 = 90 feet.
By Greg D From: Redgardentown, Co Jan 29, 2009 rating: 5.11a
criscokid,
It may be possible to combine the 2nd and 3rd pitches but the 3rd pitch goes up, traverses right, then straight up again. Maybe 150 feet total. Rope drag may be an issue. We did it in 3.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 6, 2009
We did this route primarily as an aid climb (I have a recently broken foot and shouldn't really stick it in cracks yet), and here's how the climb rolled...
P1 - 30m. Dirty, physical 5.8++ climbing. Gear is surprisingly good, but lots of flaking foot holds and a few death blocks keep it interesting. Anchor was a big slung block, plus any hand size cams you want.
P2 - 25m. Fabulous corner... I wish I could have free climbed it, but not on this trip. It was grunty C1 for me. There did appear to be nice rests on the upper half. Hanging belay on one OK bolt and good drilled angle.
P3 - 20m. Pretty wild position. Even at C0, some free climbing is required to get to the first bolt and do a stretch where a bolt is missing. The bolts do not inspire confidence - bring some screamers. You can lob a big cam through the crack onto the other side of the formation to protect getting to the first bolt. Pretty cool!
On top, choose any combination of the various bolts available... there are all flavors.
Descent: A rap anchor of 3 good drilled angles is available. One double rope rap to the big ledge, and then another rap (30m) to the ground. If needed you can easily get to the lower rap anchor from the top of P1 by walking along the big ledge.
Gear: Some medium to big nuts, One set TCUs, 2x#0.5 and 2x#0.75 camalots, a good helping of #1 and #2 camalots (most people will want at least three I suspect - four was nice for aiding), two or three #3 camalots, one #3.5 camalot.
I just did this route- super fun adventure for sure. We did it in 2 pitches no problem. The hanging belay after the hand crack sucks so we just did it in 2. No problem at all. Bring a lot of runners but cool chimney thingee and good fun all around.
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