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East Face of Texas Tower
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British C2
Avg: 4 from 7
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Routes in Texas Tower
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East Face of Texas Tower T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 |
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South Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 730 ft (221 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 11th/12th June 2002 |
| Page Views: | 7,380 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Jun 10, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
We got into the canyon with little difficulty using a short wheel base Toyota,larger trucks have made it. There are only two short places near the entrance that are a bit tricky depending on the amount of water in the stream.From the campsite hike abot 20 mins then walk steeply out of wash to right side of tower to a large pine below a big chimney. From here scramble left for 60' along a sloping ledge to the start of the route. Bolt belay.
P1. Two bolts and a pin(in place) lead out of a V niche and over a roof, two more bolts then a bit of a run out to a bulge where cracks begin, which are followed to the anchors. 80' 5.8+ C2
P2. Steep cracks and grooves to an anchor in an open chimney. 120' 5.9 C1
P3. Up chimney to big ledge. 100' 5.9
P4. Two bolts to reach a crack and chimney system that cuts through the formidable final 350' of the tower. After a short soft crack section the rock improves. 100' 5.9 C2
P5. Follow widening cracks and grooves in good rock to where the chimney cuts through to the other side of the tower. 150' 5.10 C1
P6. Wriggle through the narrow chimney to single bolt belay at the start of the last chimney pitch of the 1987 Toula route. Follow this really nice pitch to large ledge just below the summit. 150' 5.8+
P7. A couple of boulder problem moves and then easy slab to the top. 30'
This route may go all free, pitches 1 and 4 being the main problem.
One can descend by the original descent, or after the second rap new anchors on the edge leads to a big ledge(rap bolts on the far edge)at the top of pitch 3 East Face. From here two raps to ground. F.A. Paul Ross. Jeff Pheasant. Var.Leads.
P1. Two bolts and a pin(in place) lead out of a V niche and over a roof, two more bolts then a bit of a run out to a bulge where cracks begin, which are followed to the anchors. 80' 5.8+ C2
P2. Steep cracks and grooves to an anchor in an open chimney. 120' 5.9 C1
P3. Up chimney to big ledge. 100' 5.9
P4. Two bolts to reach a crack and chimney system that cuts through the formidable final 350' of the tower. After a short soft crack section the rock improves. 100' 5.9 C2
P5. Follow widening cracks and grooves in good rock to where the chimney cuts through to the other side of the tower. 150' 5.10 C1
P6. Wriggle through the narrow chimney to single bolt belay at the start of the last chimney pitch of the 1987 Toula route. Follow this really nice pitch to large ledge just below the summit. 150' 5.8+
P7. A couple of boulder problem moves and then easy slab to the top. 30'
This route may go all free, pitches 1 and 4 being the main problem.
One can descend by the original descent, or after the second rap new anchors on the edge leads to a big ledge(rap bolts on the far edge)at the top of pitch 3 East Face. From here two raps to ground. F.A. Paul Ross. Jeff Pheasant. Var.Leads.
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