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This sticks out over the widest part of Day Canyon. The route we chose up it is the obvious crack system on the Northeast side, in a slot, and gets very little sun. Another spire, attached on the northwest side and looking very much like a small version of Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite, has not been climbed. As it has no crack system to its summit and the rock quality is dubious at best, we left it alone. (A route does exist up a splitter that ends halfway.)
Drive out 313 and take the Dead Horse Point Road towards Longs Canyon. From the junction of 313 and this road, go 2.1 miles and turn left onto a rougher road. Follow this for about 2 miles, passing the dry well head parking area for The Mission. When you've gone about 2 miles from the main road you will probably have to park as it degenerates... don't worry, driving much further won't really get you closer. From this point walk north by northeast towards the rim of Day Canyon. The furthest promitory into the Canyon ends with Oobleck Tower. A slot just northeast of the tower allows a descent to the base and down into the widest part of the canyon. There is a cairn at the spot you can drop into the slot from.
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Core-shot 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Oobleck Tower
P1 Start the route on the Northeast side of the tower in a small alcove that makes a great catchers mitt for falling rocks. Do a boulder problem to get into the crack then ascend, using hand jams and wrestling moves, for 180 feet to a ledge.. Its pretty soft.P2 climb a little ways down a slab so that you can reach the left crack, then go up the crack (even softer) on some manky pro. If you maxed out on 5.10, you don't want this pitch, but its no harder than that... you just need to have a little...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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