Good lead for the 5.10 climber... will probably challenge 5.11 climbers too. The Mystery Route (or Pinhead) is NOT a really dirty route and the gear placements are the desert average. It is located right of Astro Lad and is the next route immediately right of Potash Sanction. Make your way up a using an array of cracks and features, although this is still sustained even though there appears to be a lot to work with. Midway up you'll probably want to angle left where the dihedral because more prominent. Tricky moves set you up for a very short chimney session and then the reach out and around from the chimney to clip the anchors. To bypass the chimney move right and then left again above/around it until you can stand on the ledge in the chimney and reach anchors. There is a second pitch, but it hardly seems worth the effort. As always on Wall Street set up your own anchors for top roping unless the existing anchors look above average. Rarely will I let more than 2 or 3 people top rope a setup using existing slings. I don't trust them enough for all that top roping. Use existing slings primarily for rapping or changing over and lowering.
Protection
All gear, no bolts or pitons. Bring a diverse rack, but you probably won't need more than one of anything.
This is totally incorrect information as far as the anchors on Potash. The are replaced regularly and are not webbing on most. We TR these anchors everyday. Please use draws if you are going to have large parties on the same rope. By the way there is no mystery at all that this is Pinhead....
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