Joel Hickok clipping a bolt near the top of the r...
Description
Nice slab climb. Bjornstad's guidebook overrates this at 5.10a. There is only one short crux section and lots of bolts. Good beginner/intermediate lead.
Your mileage may vary! Sandy friction -- I thought SYF was no giveaway at 5.10a. Try Puppy Love, the nice 5.9 next door, as an easier warmup if you're new to this rock.
Some people like to say that a route might average out to 5.9+ if there are some easy moves and some harder moves. However, Kyle Copeland put SYF up, and he's no give away... he called the crux move 10a. So what if it is or isn't? It's pretty accurate if you want to say the whole route "averages" to 5.9.
What it true, is this is a damn good climb to improve your slab footwork or begin to lead.
Climb has been rated 10a since long before Bjornstad's book. If anything the climb has gotten harder over time with new holds missing every time I go back. Slab climbing is an acquired skill, especially in Moab. I believe the rating holds true at 5.10a, regardless of what the Anonymous Coward who put this up thinks.
"good beginner/intermediate lead", bullshit! Just did this two days ago and thought it was solid 10a. It's dusty, and the holds are all rounded. I could believe this was easier before the masses climbed it when the edges were more squared, but I found it to be insecure and slippery for a good portion of the route. The crux was all that and sequential. Good route however, can top rope many routes from the top.
Crikey! suggestions of 5.9 or whatever need to be taken with a pinch of salt. in 2 weeks of moab climbing, this was the hardest single move i pulled off (with such style too!)...harder than the kor-ingalls offwidth (can you compare two such routes?) and a walk in the park compared to nervous in suburbia. perhaps the "good for beginners" comment is due to the extremely friendly bolting. the crux move is english 6a.cheerio!
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Nov 27, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b
I found this route to be a solid 5.10 when I recently climbed it. I agree that several of the holds must have rounded etc. It was quite sandy, and the crux seemed reachy to me. The first bolt is a bit high, but relatively easy climbing to get to it. Funny thing about slab climbing... it always seems/looks easier from the bottom. =)
By Price From: Sandy, UT Jun 3, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
I think this was harder than 5.10a on lead. You have to compare to other routes in the area. I personally think it was at least a letter grade harder than Nervous in S. Very balancy, much longer and broken hold on the crux.
One of my favorites in the area for sure, although it feels just a bit harder every year. So many fun, tenuous, just barely there moves. Be sure to TR the arete to the left, it is amazing, definitely worth taking a lap up.
Interesting climb, super sandy at the bottom, but gets better as you get higher. Wouldn't rate this any harder than 10a, but it's no gimme. At least there are no pockets to get filled with sand....give it a whirl if you're in the area....