Fun trad route up an obvious left leaning, left facing corner. After leading you can TR the difficult direct variation to the left. One of the best routes here, maybe 4 stars?
Protection
Friends to #3.5 with maybe an extra #2 and #2.5, medium to large stoppers.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Feb 28, 2002 rating: 5.9+
The left hand 'direct' variation is 5.11b and is even more fun than the regular route. Note, however, that a few non-direct moves are made in the 'direct' route. It's a great problem with a complex and interesting crux.
I felt that the crux was in the thin section in the middle of the climb. I used several wires here but didn't have all the sizes I needed. The way the crack pinches down makes small cam and tcu placements impossible. Take stoppers from about #6 to #12. The roof takes a #1 and #2 cam. fun climb
I guess I'm not a fan of Wall St, it is too close to a major road for my tastes. When those potash trucks blast by just inches from your belayer it detracts from the wilderness setting! This is the best line I've done there, though.
I have to agree George, there's no way I can climb Wall Street more than 1/2 day on any trip. That said, I've done eight or nine routes there, all but two of which were excellent, this being the best.
Classic route! Classic direct top rope! You can lead the direct line too, but better have your shit together. Of course the trucks are bothersome, but for instant cragging with quick access, it doesn't get much better than this. Try the Ice Cream Parlor for more peaceful moderate cragging, or the River Road Dihedrals.
Seems like you should only need one stopper (maybe two if you're nervous) at the thin section. The route protects very well. Only complaint... that damn poison ivy at the base!
Other suggestions that I did not see on this site, yet, are listed below.
HARD lines, see: Mother Trucker, Potash Sanction, Astro Lad, Knapping With the Alien, Static Cling
MODERATE lines,see: Frogs of a Feather, Potstash, Eat the Rich, Just Another Pretty Face, Another Roadside Distraction, 5.8 Slab, Puppy Love
Great training grounds and beginner climbing area.
Definitely a 3-Star Wall St. climb. A teriffic pitch of jamming and laybacking. Do bring a set of small to medium stoppers for the crux. I cavalierly left mine at the base and had to rig up a marginal cam. A must-do and easier than the Moki Roof, IMO.
I've loved this route for years now, but it freaks me out to climb it because I've seen two people deck on it from 30+ feet. Both of them zippered. I'm pretty sure they weren't placing correctly, though, as I've never had any problems. Also, that crap at the bottom of the climb is Poison Sumac. Two months of rashes helped me learn that.
Just a comment for AC/Casey B. I've climbed the route a few times over the years and always used a tied-off runner at the pinch to protect the moves up from the pinch-off mentioned.
By utfreeclimber From: Sandy, UT Mar 21, 2006 rating: 5.9 PG13
This climb is a super fun warm up with a variety of sorta sustained moves spaced out with killer rests. The lieback around the flake at the top is really cool.
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY May 31, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Harder than Visible Panty Line. Fun crux. I used all my medium and large nuts, and then doubles from .75-#2 camalot. Good stuff.
By Mark Michaels From: Draper, UT Sep 28, 2006 rating: 5.9+
LOVE this route! LOVE IT! The direct version 11b is recommended as TR only. The crux is at the top...the cracks down lower are 10ish with a nice rest in the middle. AWESOME.
This was my second trad lead and is still one of my favorite climbs in the area. I think I placed up to a #4 Friend at the start for security reasons. Also watch out for the sand in the crack that always ensues after a good rain.
By Devon Barker From: Glenwood Springs, CO Oct 14, 2008
Absolutely awesome route!!! my first trad lead on sandstone and all the placements felt solid. If your up for a good challenge try the direct variation. The crux is definitely interesting!
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK May 8, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Rock in this area has been trashed by rope-grooves created through people lowering off and top-roping from fixed anchors. Try looking at the photos to figure out which are the more recent ones! There are some very popular small sandstone outcrops in SE England that have been badly abused in the past by climbers top-roping, but even there it's rare to find rope damage as bad as this. Guide-book needs to state emphatically that, to avoid further damage, climbers should belay at top of pitch, then abseil, sorry rap, to ground. Come on guys, this is common sense - we don't need the environmental police on our backs. Route itself is no soft touch - in UK terms as hard as HVS 5b at Wilton.
By Judson Widner From: Park City, Ut. May 16, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Sooooo bad A$$$$! This route should not be missed, and should be repeated and repeated. The undercling is so great, and protects well, and runners here are a good call. I didn't runner it and ended with some drag.
The protection funkyness where the crack doesn't take cams can be really well protected with a creative tricam placement. This seemed to be more bomber than the nut placements available.
By rick gardiner From: Grand Junction, CO+Sammamish, Nov 14, 2009
I just did this route rope solo, using my truck as the anchor and absolutely loved it. Good jams with an interesting reachy(finger crack)/smeary(for feet) crux that protects well with nuts. No need to bring anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I am not a fan of climbing by a major road with big trucks buzzing by and climbers bringing their families(kids and dogs)to the area. Another thing I witnessed was belayers standing in the road and not moving out of the way of traffic. Is this arrogance or ignorance?
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