Regular Route ("East Rib")
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British PG13
| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.2754, -109.4052 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 53,911 total · 290/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Tomlin on Aug 16, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
3 pitch bolted route (sparse) up the SW ridge. Absolutely amazing 100% free-hanging rappel down through the amphitheater! Need two 50m ropes for the rap (or a 70m will reach the ground once weighted). Some groups use this rappel to establish a rope swing. Beware rattlesnakes at the base of the climb!
Please read before rope-swinging!
There have been numerous accidents here over the years. Do your research and climb/ swing responsibly. The swing must be rigged from the correct location, and rope slack must be managed carefully. There should never be slack in the rope for the swinger whether they are on rappel or on belay. Start from the ledge on climber’s right of the arch (the ledge with bird droppings). It's about as far right as you can go. There are old bolt holes / bolts at that ledge. If the swinger does not start from that ledge they risk striking rocks below, which can cause serious injury.
Note: this is the only descent route from the climb. Rappellers have priority. If you would like to do the rope swing, yield to other rappellers and work together to have some fun once everyone is down safely.
Protection
P1: Five bolts to a 2-bolt belay
P2: Six bolts to a 2-bolt belay
P3: Straight up for three bolt to a 2-bolt belay, there is at least 1 other bolt to the right, other options may exist.
Rappel anchor is ~15 feet down from the top. Either walk down or use bolts at top to rap or belay someone down to the rap anchors. A single 70m rope will just reach the ground.



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