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Regular Route ("East Rib")
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 482
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Routes in Looking Glass Rock
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Regular Route ("East Rib") S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 53,222 total · 307/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Tomlin on Aug 16, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
3 pitch bolted route (sparse) up the SW ridge. Absolutely amazing 100% free-hanging rappel down through the amphitheater! Need two 50m ropes for the rap (or a 70m will reach the ground once weighted). Some groups use this rapel to establish a rope swing. Beware rattlesnakes at the base of the climb!
Protection
P1: Five bolts to a 2-bolt belay
P2: Six bolts to a 2-bolt belay
P3: Straight up for three bolt to a 2-bolt belay, there is at least 1 other bolt to the right, other options may exist.
Rappel anchor is ~15 feet down from the top. Either walk down or use bolts at top to rap or belay someone down to the rap anchors. A single 70m rope will just reach the ground.
Photos
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